Spring 2002
Jun 17, 2002 Part 2	1st Blue, Humpbacks & Grand Slam Dolphins
Jun 12, 2002	A World of Richness & Giving Thanks
May 29, 2002	Tibetan Monks, Whales & Winchell School
May 21, 2002	"The Best Day of My Life!"
May 13, 2002	Humpbacks, Biodiesel, Mothers & Pieter Folkens
May 7, 2002	Humpback Whales, Moms & Illustrator's Tales
Apr 27, 2002	Good-bye Tiny Dancer
Apr 23, 2002	Rejuvenation
Apr 14, 2002	It Takes a Village
Apr 3, 2002	Humpbacks & Hummingbirds
Mar 27, 2002	Killer Whales, Lucky Grays & Our First Humpback!

6/17/02: 1st Blue, Humpbacks & Grand Slam Dolphins

We just saw our first blue whale of the year! On Saturday, we had a fun trip with some great people, including what I call Borderline Brownies because Troop 1190 is about to graduate to Girl Scouts. They loved the whales, adored our dogs and drove Princess of Whales, so it was a good trip.

But for those who happened to be with us yesterday, we had what was one of the most spectacular cruises of the year! Not 2 miles out of Moss Landing Harbor, we saw our first whale and it was a huge blue. We stayed with it for several surfacings. People were duly impressed at the size and unique, mottled coloring of the whale and many got pictures or video of it, but then we saw several blows a little farther out. Bushier and lower, they were the blows of humpbacks so we headed their way and watched a cow and calf for quite a while. Hearing whales breathe is one of life's true thrills. On several occasions, they surfaced close enough for us to hear that wonderful echo, as though air is reverberating through a twisted tunnel. Well,it is, isn't it?

We had so many friends aboard, from so many times in our lives (sea kayaking, teaching navigation, fighting for the gray whales at Neah Bay and more), that we'd like to have just sat around and visited with them. While I spotted and photographed up top on Princess, Deirdre Hall, our newly licensed captain who works for the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, shared the driving and narrating duties with Steph. Steph had a cold and felt lousy but he sure rose to the occasion. Sometimes our lives remind me too much of choreographer Bob Fosse in "All That Jazz." He'd stand bleary-eyed at the bathroom mirror in the morning, in terrible shape from kicking it up the night before. He'd stare at his sorry state of affairs and say, "It's show time!" And he would head out there to the dance studio or on stage and knock em dead.

While our maladies are more mundane--such as a cold and the effects of spending long hours on top of the boat or down in the engine rooms--the result is the same. Some days, sleeping in and going out to brunch sounds a lot more attractive than going to work. But then we see someone like James, who journeyed to the U.S. from London for a conference and took a long detour to Moss Landing to see us and the whales. Or Shabbir who is a dear friend and who brought some sparkling personalities with him yesterday. Or Jan who not only teaches kayaking but has written a book on California paddling spots and Alicia, one of a pair known as The Twisted Sisters who always has a kazoo a reason to use it (except yesterday; she was too distracted). Who wouldn't rally at the sight of these folks and others, all with silly grins on their faces as they cruised with whales?

But the bay had more for us and after we left the humpbacks for a look around, as Steph put it, we came across an absolutely dizzying congregation of Pacific white-sided dolphins. They charged toward us from every direction. Some were at the bows, others were alongside. At times, more of them were riding our wake than in front of us, but then a new group would head in from a different direction and dally with us for a while. After several minutes, northern right whale dolphins had joined in the mix and only Steph and I had ever seen them before. Even Deirdre went down and hung over the bow, transfixed by their sleek, black bodies with no dorsal fins. She reminded me so much of the Brownies from the day before, but if you know Deirdre, you know she's hardly bigger than a Brownie even now. If it weren't for her thoughtful and deliberate nature, I'd be tempted to call her Captain Cupcake!

I marvel at how Steph can chat on the PA about whales and dolphins and keep coming up with new things to say or ways to say them. Being on board with him is a lot like being in a comfy living room, chatting with a friend. Granted, this living room moves a lot more than most and the view is always changing, but you get the idea. And then there is his voice. I loved it from the first time I heard it. Warm and embracing, it's a voice than draws you into his story. His KUSP radio program "Life on the Bay" has attracted so many followers that I often hear people say to him, "There's that voice I know so well!" as he greets them at the dock.

But there are always going to be times when we say something we regret. The day I announced a breaching whale in the distance before confirming it in the binoculars, only to discover it was a fast moving boat pounding on an exceptionally stiff swell stands out in my mind.

Part Two of Last Update!
I just realized in tending the web site that half of the update isn't there and never was! I read it to Steph before sending it and it was all there, then POOF! Gone. If you'd like to read the rest, scroll down to where the first sentence is in CAPS. Take care, Heid

P.S. Had 6 orcas on the bay 6/19!

We just saw our first blue whale of the year. On Saturday, we had a fun trip with some great people, including what I call Borderline Brownies because Troop 1190 is about to graduate to Girl Scouts. They loved the whales, adored our dogs and drove Princess of Whales, so it was a good trip.

But for those who happened to be with us yesterday, we had what was one of the most spectacular cruises of the year! Not 2 miles out of Moss Landing Harbor, we saw our first whale and it was a huge blue. We stayed with it for several surfacings. People were duly impressed at the size and unique, mottled coloring of the whale and many got pictures or video of it, but then we saw several blows a little farther out. Bushier and lower, they were the blows of humpbacks so we headed their way and watched a cow and calf for quite a while. Hearing whales breathe is one of life's true thrills. On several occasions, they surfaced close enough for us to hear that wonderful echo, as though air is reverberating through a twisted tunnel. Well,it is, isn't it?

We had so many friends aboard, from so many times in our lives (sea kayaking, teaching navigation, fighting for the gray whales at Neah Bay and more), that we'd like to have just sat around and visited with them. While I spotted and photographed up top on Princess, Deirdre Hall, our newly licensed captain who works for the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, shared the driving and narrating duties with Steph. Steph had a cold and felt lousy but he sure rose to the occasion. Sometimes our lives remind me too much of choreographer Bob Fosse in "All That Jazz." He'd stand bleary-eyed at the bathroom mirror in the morning, in terrible shape from kicking it up the night before. He'd stare at his sorry state of affairs and say, "It's show time!" And he would head out there to the dance studio or on stage and knock em dead.

While our maladies are more mundane--such as a cold and the effects of spending long hours on top of the boat or down in the engine rooms--the result is the same. Some days, sleeping in and going out to brunch sounds a lot more attractive than going to work. But then we see someone like James, who journeyed to the U.S. from London for a conference and took a long detour to Moss Landing to see us and the whales. Or Shabbir who is a dear friend and who brought some sparkling personalities with him yesterday. Or Jan who not only teaches kayaking but has written a book on California paddling spots and Alicia, one of a pair known as The Twisted Sisters who always has a kazoo a reason to use it (except yesterday; she was too distracted). Who wouldn't rally at the sight of these folks and others, all with silly grins on their faces as they cruised with whales?

But the bay had more for us and after we left the humpbacks for a look around, as Steph put it, we came across an absolutely dizzying congregation of Pacific white-sided dolphins. They charged toward us from every direction. Some were at the bows, others were alongside. At times, more of them were riding our wake than in front of us, but then a new group would head in from a different direction and dally with us for a while. After several minutes, northern right whale dolphins had joined in the mix and only Steph and I had ever seen them before. Even Deirdre went down and hung over the bow, transfixed by their sleek, black bodies with no dorsal fins. She reminded me so much of the Brownies from the day before, but if you know Deirdre, you know she's hardly bigger than a Brownie even now.

I marvel at how Steph can chat on the PA about whales and dolphins and keep coming up with new things to say or ways to say them. Being on board with him is a lot like being in a comfy living room, chatting with a friend. Granted, this living room moves a lot more than most and the view is always changing, but you get the idea. And then there is his voice. I loved it from the first time I heard it. Warm and embracing, it's a voice than draws you into his story. His KUSP radio program "Life on the Bay" has attracted so many followers that I often hear people say to him, "There's that voice I know so well!" as he greets them at the dock.

But there are always going to be times when we say something we regret. The day I announced a breaching whale in the distance before confirming it in the binoculars, only to discover it was a fast moving boat pounding on an exceptionally stiff swell stands out in my mind.

"NEVER TELL THEM ABOUT WHAT THEY AREN'T SEEING" is a rule we rarely break without good reason. For instance, I talk about Steph's having seen a Pacific right whale because they are so rare, most people will never see them. But last week, Steph said to our passengers, "We often see these two species with Risso's dolphins, the big, heavily scarred dolphins with the blunt heads." Oh, no, I thought, he's telling them about what they aren't seeing. Then I shrugged it off. He had a bad cold and he'd done such a great job. He had run a flawless trip. But it wasn't more than a few minutes later that he announced over the PA, "Remember I said Pacific white-sided dolphins and northern right whale dolphins often travel with Risso's? Well, here they come!" All together, we saw 2 species of whales and 3 species of dolphins on one sparkling day on the Bay and we never were more than 3 1/2 miles from port. It's show time, indeed.

Our new internet special is easy (no coupons to print or remember to bring) but there is a catch. You absolutely must mention it at the time you make reservations. It won't do you any good at the dock. You may take advantage of whichever offer works for you. They are:

Buy 3, the 4th Goes Free (least expensive ticket is free) or $2.50 off each ticket purchased. These offers are good for any cruise any time, but reservations must be made by July 15th. You may elect to donate your savings toward our biodiesel costs or you could do what Dave Flory has done. He's paid $50 for his $37.50 passage twice, each time donating the balance to offset the costs of our use of a blend of a greener, cleaner fuel. I marvel at people who share our belief that greener fuels are the way to go and are willing to join us in paying more for them.

This coming Saturday, we will host several interns for our Sanctuary Cruises Seamanship Program with the Lyceum of Monterey County. These kids wrote essays on the threats to the oceans and the creatures found in them in order to qualify for the program. They will join the crew for the weekend and do much of what we do. With several aspiring marine biologists, oceanographers and one young woman who wants to be a captain, it promises to be one busy weekend. We can't wait!

6/12/02: A World of Richness & Giving Thanks

There is a lot to be said for people who have been blessed with abundance in their lives, then shown their gratitude for it. On Sunday, we hosted a gathering of old friends of a couple who recently turned fifty. Most were from the Santa Cruz area which was readily apparent by their Birkenstocks and tie dyes, but they stood out for other reasons. More than any other group ever, they asked whether we recycle and if so, where the recycling containers were on Princess of Whales. Of course we recycle and we thanked them for doing the same.

One fellow brought a bouquet of flowers from his garden and they were outstanding. A hot pink gladiolus, several different fern fronds, a hydrangea and more filled the jar and when they were inadvertently forgotten by the hosts, we gladly took them home to continue their reign of beauty. Anyone can purchase a bouquet, but it takes a talented and thoughtful gardener to grow, then bring, such a beautiful range of plants to his friends' party. This was a catered event and there was a musician on board. He played on the sundeck. I bartended and loved his music. He went from a soft, jazzy Wes Montgomery song to Cat Stevens. The Eagles to Gordon Lightfoot. People danced, drank mimosas, talked and laughed in ever-changing groups. It was a fine celebration.

The couple brought corn meal with them, which is something not often considered essential on a boat cruise. They explained they have experienced wonderful things and their lives are good. They wanted to say thank you for this by casting corn meal onto the water. In a world too often represented by greed and insincerity, we found this an especially touching gesture, as did many of their guests.

Last Friday, I attended the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary Advisory Council's meeting in Big Sur. It was an interesting one because we're starting to sift through all of the comments made in anticipation of the revision of the sanctuary's management plan. Thousands of comments have been sorted and categorized. They range all the way from expand the boundaries of the sanctuary to reduce the boundaries. Stay out of fisheries regulation to get more involved in regulation. Quiet down to speak up. You name it, it's been said.

But a very recent expedition conducted under the guidance of Dr. Andrew Devogelare to Davidson Seamount, far offshore and outside of the sanctuary, has alerted us to something very new and wonderful. We have known of this seamount, but it has not been the subject of great study because it's so hard to get down to. Because of its depth (about 4,000 feet; too deep for current trawl gear to reach the top of the 12 million year old underwater volcano range), Davidson Seamount is as pristine an area as we are likely to find beneath the sea.

Fabulous creatures were seen thanks to the ROV's (remote operated vehicles) deployed from research vessel Western Flyer. While she belongs to the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute, she was chartered by the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary for this voyage into wonder and yes, abundance. Everyone that was on the expedition has raved over what they saw. Imagine sponges the size of garge doors, fishes never before seen, corals that are hundreds and possibly thousands of years old... All just outside our sanctuary. So the question that begs asking is do we try to envelope Davidson Seamount in the sanctuary's boundaries? One would hope the answer is a resounding, "YES!"

The SAC meeting was also my opportunity to give an update on our use of biodiesel. We love the stuff. It smells good, it emits 78% less CO2 and 55% fewer particulates than regular diesel. When we need more, all we have to do is grow more soybeans or recycle more french fry grease. Forget foreign fossile fuel! When Steph arranged our first fueling, it was to start the ball rolling to increase demand and decrease price. In a matter of just weeks, suddenly Dennis at our fuel dock is being bombarded by suppliers who want to sell him biodiesel. Already, the price has dropped from over $3 a gallon to $2.30 which includes 40 cents per gallon road tax which will be rebated back to us at the end of the year. It's possible, according to Dennis, that we might get our price down to just 17 cents over what we're paying now for regular diesel.

In order to do that, we need a big player that uses a lot of diesel. Western Flyer is the perfect candidate and we're hoping that the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute will agree. After all, MBARI and the Aquarium are at the leading edge of marine conservation and little pipsqueak Sanctuary Cruises has already shown it can happen: biodiesel can be today's fuel, not just tomorrow's dream.

The whales and dolphins have been pretty darned exciting lately. Last Saturday, we saw a large concentration of Pacific white-sided dolphins, Risso's dolphins and northern right whale dolphins. I have never seen so many NRWD's at one time and I might even have finally gotten some good photos of them as they jumped out of the water in squadrons of 4, 5 and even 6 dolphins at a time. These dolphins have no dorsal fins and could be mistaken for sea lions without close scrutiny. But nearby, it's easy to see they are sleeker, more aquadynamic and of course, they have finely shaped flukes, not the chubby flippers that sea lions have.

This recent Monterey Bay photograph by Milos Radakovich, leader and grand poobah of Bay Net, exemplifies the extraordinary power and joy of a humpback's breach. I especially love the inclusion of some rigging on Milos' folding trimaran, Origami.

As spring blooms into summer, the blue whales take center stage. Every superlative applies to the blues. They are the biggest mammals ever for size and mass. They would dwarf even the dinosaurs. As they break the surface in their characteristic sideways lunge, their pleated throats can expand to hold the volume of a couple of standard sized bedrooms! Their tail stocks, located just above their sharply pointed flukes, resemble the ancient redwoods, they are so big. The blues have been spotted farther offshore and we expect to see our first of 2002 any day. You might be the lucky one to be with us when we do.

Trips run at 10:30. They're 3-5 hours long but average around 4 these days. They are $37.50 for adults, $27.50 for kids 12 and under and under 2 is free. Season's Passes are a great way to save some money. They are $300.00 each and good for ten cruises any time. Reservations can be made online or by calling 831.643.0128.

We hope to see you soon and don't forget to bring the corn meal!

5/29/02: Tibetan Monks, Whales & Winchell School

The weather this past week was mostly cold and drab on Monterey Bay. Sunshine was just a few miles inland, but the coast was chilly. The whale action was anything but chilly although it was definitely in the cool range, as in way cool. We had so many humpback whales, so close to Moss Landing, that on some of our cruises we spent more time with whales than without them!

Everyone assumes Memorial Day weekend to be booked well in advance but we had relatively small trips. Quite a few people had been out with us before, some of them so often Steph only half-jokingly threatened to put them to work. Saturday easily qualifies as one of the best trips of the year. We had a cow and calf pair out there and that calf was ripping it up! It breached so many times that everyone who was trying said they got at least one photograph. But there was also a spyhop near us and numerous pectoral flipper slaps and "High Ones" (like a "High 5" minus 4). Several whales slapped their flukes on the surface and one did what appeared to be a headstand, its flukes frozen in the air.

As has happened recently, some of our passengers paid more than their fares to kick into the biodiesel pot. I still don't know the exact price we paid for the new, green fuel but Steph says, "Oh, a little over $3 a gallon," making it well over twice what we pay for regular diesel. But there are prices we pay and then there are PRICES WE PAY. This is worth it and our passengers' enthusiasm at being part of our venture into promoting and encouraging the use of fuels we can grow (such as soybeans and canola), is exciting. The Ridlers kicked in an extra $10 on Sunday and here is how they were rewarded:

We saw a lone humpback just minutes out of the harbor, then another. But lone whales don't usually show much so we moved north and cruised through the salmon fleet. There were a lot of whales feeding in tandem on Saturday and we knew we'd come across them if we kept looking. As we worked out to the west a bit and then south, there were several whales to watch. Two of them headed toward Moss Landing, giving us great looks. David Tillotson, who along with Marco Vaccari shares the distinction of getting two of the best breach photos ever on our boats, was there and he patiently waited to get another chance. (This wild photo is by a friend of ours, Wayne Kelley, but it wasn't takem with us.) All of a sudden, a whale EXPLODED from the water in a magnificent breach just a few hundred yards away! I 'd stowed my camera but I ran outside and looked at David. "Did you get it!?" I asked. No. Neither did the Ridlers; neither did most of our passengers. But almost everyone saw it and to see a breach that close on such calm water was very cool.

On Monday, Steph and Chris ran a smaller trip on Sanctuary. We were honored to have several Tibetan high lamas on our cruise. They blessed the waters and our boat and when they saw the many humpback whales, they blessed them, too. This must have started a chain reaction because Steph then found a large pod of Risso's dolphins and then they saw a sperm whale! I'm pretty sure they were blessed as well by the Tibetans, who are living in exile in India (when is China going to shape up and leave Tibet alone, anyway?).

Sanctuary's passengers were quite diverse: In addition to the monks, we had Pakistanis, Germans, someone from Greece, a family from Oklahoma and folks from Santa Cruz and San Jose, California. Some days, we have extraordinary experiences because we have covered a lot of water. Other days, it is simply because all of the grand creatures have congregated in one area. Some days, it might just be our luck as when we spotted the orcas as we came in from a fine day of gray whale watching. Girls celebrating their birthdays seem to spur great experiences. But I won't rule out the cosmic effects of being blessed by Tibetan monks.

Today is Wednesday. We planned to take it off in lieu of Minday, our usual day off, but there were a bunch of kids from Winchell School in Fresno, California who had never seen whales. Many had never been on a boat and several had never even been to the beach! So Steph, Chris and I turned to and these kids were worth it. They loved Princess of Whales and made sure they didn't leave a mess on her. They were dazzled by the Monterey Bay and hung out on the bow and sundeck as though they were ordered to be there. When we saw our first whales, I thought the kids might faint from excitement. Unlike some kids who have declared disappointment that the whales don't do tricks like at Sea World, these kids were absolutely enthralled.

After watching several humpbacks in a range of a couple of miles, I let the kids drive and this was one thrilling time for me. The children stood patiently on the bridge waiting for their turn. As each one took the wheel, I had her or him look out and note the boats around us. I instructed them to look out for whales while they generally steered for Moss Landing. This would have been one of life's greatest moments had it ever happened to me that I was not only allowed but encouraged to drive someone's boat. They'd have had to pry my fingers loose from the wheel and drag me out of there.

The kids today loved driving the boat. They paid attention, they were awed as each one took a turn. But what stands out in my mind is the unique reaction of several of them. They were on the bridge at different times. There was no grandstanding for the others. But as they took hold of the wheel, each erupted into the most natural upwelling of genuine thrill that I've ever witnessed. One girl acted as though the wheel conducted an electrical current and rather than being shocked at the discovery, she was positively charged.

I can't speak for how you might react, but this was one of my happiest times in a long time. Girls getting a kick out of driving boats. Way cool.

5/21/02: "The Best Day of My Life!"

The wind howled and the sky was dark and moody. A few scattered raindrops had begun to fall. But as passengers stepped off of Princess of Whales last Sunday, they were smiling and waving and couldn't have been happier. We'd just come in from a three hour trip and we'd had incredible conditions and phenomenal humpback whales.

People had joined us for their third and fourth times. A batch of Brownies from nearby Salinas had never been whale watching before, but their anticipation was pretty darned high. Three of our parties paid more than they needed to for their fares, each instructing us to put the balance toward our biodiesel costs. They appreciate what we're doing bringing the cleaner, green fuel onto the bay and they wanted to help offset the extra bill of over twice the going rate of regular diesel. I sometimes wonder how I'd have reacted if I encountered a company that does business as we do. I know I'd be a very big cheerleader for them and I'd be one of those folks handing over additional funds. Funny how things work out, isn't it?

There were several photographers with very good equipment and their opportunities to catch the whales in the midst of wild behavior were so numerous that it's a safe guess to say each went home with a real trophy or two on their film. The cruise was on flat, serene water despite an approaching front. That's often how it happens out there as we get the proverbial quiet before the storm. There was no wind, no swell and at times, one might have guessed we were on a lake; it was that calm.

The bait was so thick that our depth sounder's screen showed a solid picture of red and orange from the surface down to the bottom at 240 feet. Repeatedly, we got a false bottom reading because the signal sent out by the transducer hit such a solid mass of fish, it read it as the bottom. We'd go from 240 feet of water to 16 feet without moving. Humpback whales were feeding in groups of twos mostly and they paid no attention to us. It was so calm and the whales were so plentiful that Steph shut down the main engines on Princess of Whales and just ran the generator. This way, the whales would know where we were plus we could keep the grill hot because whale watching is hungry work.

We ran from one side of the boat to the other, many of us with cameras, trying to catch a shot of the very impressive animals who demonstrated almost every action we can think of. There were breaches, where the whales careened out of the water before splashing back into it like a hippo in a wading pool. One whale spy hopped close by on our starboard side. Another rolled onto its back, lazily waving a pectoral flipper into the air in a "High One." Whales surfaced close enough for everyone to hear the incredible force of their blows and to peer into the water for a look at the knobby tubercles on their faces.

To catch a photograph takes some skill and a lot of luck. Patience is required in large doses. I have long since decided that it's largely my fate to be looking east when the action was west or to turn off my camera and start down the ladder just as the action takes place. My best photographs were taken with empty cameras; no film. Even so, over the years I have gotten some terrific shots in my own version of "Give a chimpanzee a typewriter and eventually it will type everything in Webster's Collegiate Dictionary." I did catch this breach here, but it's not the great shot I believe a few pros on the bow got. They were facing the right way at the right time and hadn't chosen that very instant to scratch their noses.

Just after a whale surfaced mere feet from our hull, all of us let out a collective groan because we'd missed the shot.

"Sometimes," Steph informed us over the PA, "you just need to put the camera down and take in the experience on a deeper level." I took some solace from these wise words until he asked me over the handheld VHF radio I carried, "Did you get it?"

The Brownies were enchanted by both the whales and our Golden Retrievers, Fluke and Rumba. The little girls skittered from one deck to the other, raving over their introduction to what it's like being with whales. But they also stretched out on the dog beds and petted each one until there were numerous little piles of fluffy, newly shedded fur floating around on the bridge. Life is good when you have watched some of the sea's largest creatures nearby and then cuddled up with a pair of sweet dogs who will lick your cheek and swipe your Famous Amos cookie if you let them. One of the Brownies summed it up like this:

"Today is the best day of my life!" she raved. Then she thoughtfully added, "So far."

We'd been with the whales for well over an hour when the wind line that was far offshore made its way toward us nestled in the south bay. We headed for Moss Landing as the wind hauled to the south and blew us northward. The ride was smooth and fun. As we headed through the jaws of the jetties, the wind had grown and the bay was a mass of ever-growing whitecaps. A drop or two of rain hinted at what was to come. But we docked before it hit and everyone had time to scamper to their cars and head for home dry and happy.

We stayed a few more hours, working on the last details in preparation for our annual Coast Guard inspection, which was yesterday. Steph works a solid month getting ready for our inspections. Paperwork has to be updated and arranged. Allof the life jackets are taken from their cabinets and stacked neatly. I put a fresh coat of lettering on our life rafts and we felt we were ready, but we never take it for granted.

Yesterday, our inspection went flawlessly. After crawling around through the hulls of Princess of Whales, observing her fire fighting system in operation and so on, the Coast Guard officer had us go out on the bay to make some tight "S" turns so he could check our steering and to show how we handle a person overboard drill.

The weather had moderated overnight but was in high gear again as the life jacket representing a person was thrown overboard. White caps streaked the heaving water and wind slashed them into airborne spikes. Using our port pilot station (Princess has three operating stations: one on each side of the bridge and one in the center), I maneuvered the boat so we would drift down on the life jacket. Our engineer, Chief, relayed information back and forth between Steph and me. As we got closer, I worked the boat ahead so that Steph, standing at the stern port side, could hook the life jacket. I pulled the engines to neutral which stopped the props from turning. Steph pulled the life jacket aboard smartly and then went through what he'd be doing to administer first aid had this been a person. As I headed the boat in, the officer smiled broadly. "This is a class act," he told Steph and Chief. We really like hearing that.

If you've been waiting for the big numbers of humpback whales to arrive, this is it. We never know when they will start to work out of the bay and along the coast so that we're seeing them in ones, twos and threes again but for now, it isn't uncommon to see 15 to 20 individuals on one cruise.

It could make for the best day of your life! (So far.)

Trips are 3-5 hours long but averaging between 3-4 these days. Rates are $35.00 for adults and $25.00 for kids 12 and under. On June 1st, rates go to $37.50 for adults and $27.50 for kids. You can lock in great prices by purchasing a Season's Pass. It's good for 10 cruises and may be used by anyone. Season's Passes are $275.00 now and go to $300.00 June 1st.

5/13/02: Humpbacks, Biodiesel, Mothers & Pieter Folkens

Where do I even start on this whirlwind of a week? On Thursday, we took on our first loads of biodiesel for Sanctuary and Princess of Whales. The fuel is a deep, rich golden color and because it's heavier than regular diesel, we could smell it within a couple of minutes of starting the boats. Forget the smell of diesel; this stuff wafts around reminding you of a bakery. It's almost eerie how fast the change was.

KSBW TV did a great story on us using the new fuel. Ya gotta love free advertising, but imagine this: We paid around $2.50 a gallon for our fuel. Regular diesel costs under half that. We took on hundreds of gallons of fuel. A lot of people are really excited about the possibilities, but guess what Jack Cain did? Jack and his wife Glenna are extraordinary supporters of Sanctuary Cruises and what we do. Jack heard we planned to switch to a blend of biodiesel to start the ball rolling and break the Catch 22 of, "Price won't go down until demand goes up; demand won't go up until price goes down." He contacted us and pledged $200.00 toward our first fueling and yesterday, he delivered that check! I think we will pledge that money to our new grant writer. She has a strong background in water quality and conservation and she begins work mid-June to locate funds to help our fuel dock install permanent facilities for the new fuel.

The initial fueling was done by tanker truck. It was delivered by Toro Petroleum in Salinas and I was allowed to crawl up on the tank, open it and dip out a bottle of biodiesel so we could show it around. I got a card from Jonathan Bohlman, the fellow who delivered the fuel. His name didn't ring any bells at first, but gradually it plagued me. Bohlman, I thought as I drove home that afternoon. Bohlman. The next day, the mist parted. I called and left a message:

"Jon, remember when I told you I lived up in Oregon and worked on tugs there? Well, your name has been bugging me and this is a long shot, but are you related to a Bohlman who once lived in a great little cedar house high above the Columbia River in Astoria? He had an old ship's lifeboat that he named after his wife, Baybelle, and it was in the front yard for years. If so, I suspect he was your grandfather. I bought the house after he died and the sale was conducted long distance by his son, a John Bohlman in Monterey. That's not a common name and I'm wondering if he's your dad..."

Jon called later that day.

"You're right! John is my dad and he's standing here now, laughing at your message. That was my grandfather!"

Now I ask you, what are the chances?

After we fueled, the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute's Zephyr took on a biodiesel load as well. Brian Ackerman is Zephyr's skipper and he likes the stuff. Dennis Long, who runs our fuel dock, is looking into larger shipments of the fuel so he can lower the cost. Toro Petroleum is getting excited about biodiesel because we are. Dennis may have a source for bulk shipments that could come in at 17 cents a gallon higher than regular diesel. Toro can accomodate train car loads of the fuel if they have a market for it. If the price goes down substantially, MBARI says they will use it to fuel their big research vessel, Western Flyer. She uses enough fuel to help drive down the price for all of us.

Do you see a pattern here?

Margaret Mead said never underestimate what a small group of committed individuals can accomplish, that this is the best way to get anything done. Right on.

Yesterday was Mother's Day. Oh, the memories on this Mother's Day. I thought of Steph's mom, Merle. I thought about my mom, Janet. And I thought of Baybelle. She outlived her husband and after suffering a stroke, was brought to California to a nursing home near her daughter in Sonoma. She no longer could read or speak. As I discovered my snug little home by the seasons and learned about Baybelle through neighbors, I came to see the garden through her eyes. Between long stints on tugs, I had a lot of time at home. Mine was a more placid life back then. Just as I am writing now, I always have written. I wrote long letters to Baybelle. Her daughter read read them out loud during visits. I didn't look for a response, but Baybelle's daughter sent kind letters occasionally, telling me how much her mom enjoyed hearing about her beloved maple, the fiery lilies that appeared faithfully each year, the magical night time view of the ship's running lights far below on the river. My last letter from her daughter was to tell me she'd received another of my letters for her mom, but Baybelle had died. Mothers do, now don't they?

This Mother's Day, we treated mothers with offspring to a free cruise. Maybe they will fondly look back on their adventure for years to come; I hope so. We had scientific illustrator Pieter Folkens on the cruise. The picture above is of Pieter along with me (center)and Steph. Pieter is a founding member of the Alaska Whale Foundation and he illustrated the terrific new National Audubon Society Guide to Marine Mammals of the World. Passengers were treated to spectacular numbers of humpback whales and it was pretty neat to hear Pieter's stories of whale research and conservation efforts as we witnessed everything from breaches and tail slashes to so many different sightings of whales that we gave up trying to tell people where to look. "Everywhere" was the simple answer.

We had a marvelous cross-section of people on the cruise and despite slighty bumpy seas, I don't think one person got sick. It was an exceptionally happy and fun-loving crowd with lots of people who have become friends. Many of them took home signed books, which we now have in stock on Princess of Whales. We are trying to coordinate another cruise with Pieter in July, when the blue whales are here as well as humpbacks. If you missed it yesterday, keep an eye out for the next one. I don't care how much you think you know about whales, Pieter will give you some new, cool information; he did with us!

We are running whale watching cruises Wednesdays through Sundays at 9:30 through May. The humpbacks are here and putting on quite a delightful show. Tickets are still $35.00 for adults and $25.00 for kids 12 and under. I think we might add $2.50 to adult tickets to help with the added costs running a biodiesel blend. We, unlike MBARI, are not funded by the Packard Foundation--darn it! If so, we will make the change June 1st.

Next Saturday, May 18th, from 6:00-9:00 p.m., you have yet another opportunity to meet a pillar of the natural world and word. Writer and essayist Barry Lopez will be aboard Princess of Whales for a gala dockside event sponsored by Friends, Artists & Neighbors of Elkhorn Slough (FANS). The New York Times said of Barry's recently published collection of stories, Light Action in the Caribbean, "These are quietly astonishing tales, glistening with precision."

It's fitting that Lopez would be here to help the slough. He loves wild places and fights for their right to endure. Elkhorn Slough, which works seven miles inland from Moss Landing Harbor, is a very special place with a complex ecosystem. It's the second largest saltwater marsh habitat in California and home to otters, a harbor seal rookery and numerous species of birds. Bat rays and sharks forage in the slough's inner reaches; they also breed and bear their young along the muddy shorelines.

Restoration and protection of the slough is a never-ending job and it's currently threatened by massive development along its borders. You can enjoy a fine buffet dinner with wine, mingle with like-minded souls, hear Barry speak and even hop on Sanctuary for a harbor cruise during the event.

Barry's books include Artic Dreams, which won the National Book Award. The San Francisco Chronicle says, "Lopez takes his place among the greatest twentieth-century American nature writers."

I can't wait to meet him and hear his story. Tickets are $100.00 per person and all proceeds go to FANS of Elkhorn Slough and their efforts to preserve this jewel. If you'd like to make reservations, please call FANS of Elkhorn Slough at 831.728.4248. You can check out their web site at:

www.saveourslough.org.

This event is presented by FANS of Elkhorn Slough. It's sponsored by the good folks at Bay Books, Bookshop Santa Cruz, Coast Weekly, Kinko's, LandWatch Monterey County and Sanctuary Cruises.

Come celebrate nature with us and make a donation toward its preservation. Remember, you're part of the solution or you're part of the problem. It feels really good being on the solution side of the equation!

5/7/02:Humpback Whales, Moms & Illustrator's Tales

The humpback whales are here in great numbers and this Sunday, May 12th, we will have a special guest on Princess of Whales. Pieter Folkens is the illustrator of the National Audubon Society's brand new Guide to Marine Mammals of the World. It's beautiful, comprehensive and fascinating reading. The book will be on board and available for purchase ($26.95 plus tax) and Pieter will sign it for you.

Pieter has worked with whales all over the place, but most especially in Alaska where he founded the Alaska Whale Foundation, a non-profit marine mammal research and conservation organization. He has vast knowledge on the feeding ecology of killer and humpback whales and will share some of his insights on the cruise.

Sunday is Mother's Day. Steph's mom, Merle, just died and so many of you have written kind, thoughtful messages to us. Thank you for this. One woman whose trip was canceled since we were out of town used that day to write her father. Others said they were glad we recently had a wonderful visit with Merle and that there was nothing left unsaid. It was an especially good visit. They said they could only hope for the same great memories.

In honor of Merle and Janet (my mom) this Mother's Day, we are inviting mothers who are accompanied by their offspring to join us for free. Grab your mom and come spend the day with whales. Hear the "WHOOSH!" of their blows, watch their massive bodies undulate through the rich waters of Monterey Bay. Smell the fresh sea air.

It is a spectacular experience.

We don't charge extra for our special author and illustrator cruises, so rates for the 3-5 hour cruise are $35 for adults and $25 for kids 12 and under. Under 2 is free.

Moms, if your kids are too young to be the impetus behind this cruise, then take matters into your own hands! You may make reservations by calling us at 831.643.0128 or on our web site on the Reservations link shown here. Please let us know if you'd like to reserve a book.

Happy Mother's Day from all of us at Sanctuary Cruises.

4/27/02: Good-bye Tiny Dancer

We're going to be gone this week and some of you who were planning to go whale watching with us will be disappointed. I know, we just got back from vacation. Last week, we visited Steph's mom. As always, she dazzled us with how fit she was. Agile, graceful, played tennis every week, walked to the village for coffee. We had a wonderful visit and it might sound silly but I insisted Steph and I dress up because she liked that a lot. I'm sure glad we did because she died this morning.

Merle Dutton was the prima ballerina of the San Francisco Ballet. She married a man who became a fighter pilot in World War II and he survived being shot down twice during the war, but died a long time ago. Merle carried on. She outlived one son but last week, in what now seems more than a marvelous coincidence, both of her remaining sons and their wives converged on her home for a reunion too long unseen. She met our dogs and delighted in walking them to the village where the coffee lady gave them biscuits. She insisted on meeting our weird cats and told stories of the favorite cats and dogs of the Dutton household.

I always cooked when we visited. This was to prove, as we often joked, that Merle's kitchen actually could be cooked in. She loved a recipe of mine with pork tenderloins and jalapenos. When she heard we were visiting last week, she went out and bought a package of tenderloins in anticipation. We arrived with two more and even with a house filled with friends and family for dinner, there were leftovers.

We had a great visit. Steph and his brother Pete spent some private time with their mom and Pete's wife, Rhonda, and I commented how good it was for them to be together. You could write a book about all the things we mean to say and don't, but last week, we said it all. And we talked on the phone after we got home. The only thing remaining was to send a beautiful card with a sea anenome to Merle thanking her and her gentleman friend Dick for a lovely visit and a nice dinner out. Dick always took us out to dinner when we visited, but this time, Steph and I insisted on taking them out first. It was important to us. We didn't go down there planning to take care of unfinished business, but that's how it happened.

While we were down south, Steph came across an old brass telescope that he fell in love with. He described it fondly to his mother and she eagerly offered to buy it for him.

"You know how I am with birthdays and gifts," she explained. "This is perfect. You love it, so let's buy it!" We did and on the trip home, I took a picture of Steph sitting on the ground in the dark, looking up at the stars. I printed it in a montage of shots of the boat and our dogs and sent it to her in the anenome card two days ago. She won't be home when the card arrives Monday, but it's okay. Nothing was left unsaid.

Stylish and proud, Merle was definitely old school. It took her a while to warm to me until she understood just how much Steph and I love each other. Between that and the pork tenderloin recipe, it was a slam dunk. Just as she was glad we had each other, we were glad she and Dick had each other. It's the last thing I wrote in the card.

Merle died much as my mom died. No malingering. No prolonged illness; we didn't have a clue. She had chest pain last night and was hospitalized, which put us all in a tizzy. But this morning, the doctors were talking about releasing her. She certainly was released.

There's a new star in the sky, but we've lost our Tiny Dancer. We love you, Nana.

4/23/02: Rejuvenation

Maybe one week off after three years sounds a little skimpy to you, but there you have it. A young business is every bit as demanding as a young child and there is always something to do for it, with it, because of it. But last week, we pulled the plug and hit the road.

Hawaii? Mexico? Europe? Naw, just a meandering route down the coast in our little RV with our two big dogs and two weird cats, who howled for the first few hundred miles before realizing the vet wasn't at the end of this journey. Eventually, they took to the trip and enjoyed themselves immensely. Chigger positioned herself on Steph's lap as he drove, casually biting him every once in a while in a lazy, "I'm on vacation, but I can't let all of my old ways go" sort of way. Possum curled up with me or inside the couch.

The golden girls, Fluke and Rumba, joined us for long bike rides down Pacific Coast Highway; they think vacations are cool, too.

We got to visit with family that we haven't seen in years and for the first time in a long time, boats, phones and computers didn't dictate our days.

At a favorite spot near Santa Barbara, we watched dolphins just outside the surf line and thrilled at the distant sightings, despite the fact we are often surrounded by dolphins in our work and we see them from such a different and incredible perspective.

Now we are home and the humpbacks are here in bigger numbers, as promised. We start back on the bay tomorrow and it will be a Princess of Whales day, so we both work. We can't wait!

I am gearing up for the Pieter Folkens cruise May 12th, Mother's Day. What a neat present for a mother, to give her whale watching with one of our country's premier scientific illustrators as well as his new book, National Audubon Society's Guide to Marine Mammals of the World. You can make reservations by calling 831.643.0128 or on our web site. A few small groups have signed up and by taking advantage of the Season's Pass (good for 10 trips for $275.00; may be used all at once or over the year), their members are paying $27.50 each which is a hefty discount from $35.00.

Before we left, Steph's KUSP program on biodiesel aired. I also wrote about our efforts to bring it to Monterey Bay in the last update. We heard from several folks who promise to use it if it comes here. Bill Douros, superintendent of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, pledged to help us in any way he can. Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute skippers and engineers agreed to use biodiesel. The harbor master of Monterey called to tell Steph he loves biodiesel and was very enthusiastic about its use here. Dennis at Woodward's, our fuel dock in Moss Landing, looked into fueling options and found a way to let us begin sooner than expected. One of our email update readers wrote and said they'd pay a few bucks more for their cruises with us to support the move to a healthier, smarter fuel.

All very good things. But we also got several requests to be removed from the email update list and the timing might suggest supporting biodiesel and protecting the arctic from oil drilling were offensive topics for some whale and dolphin lovers. I'd doubt this if it weren't for the fact we have run across several people who believe drilling in the arctic is their right and biodiesel is bad because it might keep them from it. What a boneheaded idea that is. You protect what you have and if you view treasures that are rarely visited as wasted because of the fact they haven't been paved, drained or worse, then what are you going to leave behind? And how proud can you be at taking more than is needed or confusing conservation with politics?

I am always surprised to hear people rail against protection of the land, air and water as a Democratic shortcoming. Is there a place where you grew up, that special forest or field or marsh, that remains today? Are there more birds, deer, foxes and rabbits now than thirty years ago? Does it matter? It does to us.

Here's the deal: Biodiesel is coming to the bay and it's going to be very expensive until there is enough demand for it to warrant more production.

We aren't waiting for someone else to take that first step; we're doing it. It's not a political statement, it's a common sense move and although we missed Earth Day for our maiden fueling, we didn't miss it by far. This Friday, we get our first shipment into Moss Landing. Did this happen because of a large, expensive program? No. Did a coalition form and debate the matter for a few years before finally pulling it off? Nope. It was Steph, who read a little bit about biodiesel and then did some homework. He always amazes me.

This morning, he was up at 4 to drive to Santa Cruz to answer phones for the KUSP pledge drive. Then he recorded his "Life on the Bay" series for May. And in an hour, we'll meet in Moss Landing to put the new, AQUA acrylic side panels on Sanctuary. All good things, but on Friday, I think even Steph will feel he outdid himself. I sure do.

4/14/02: It Takes a Village

I love the sense of community that we have in Moss Landing. The sport King Salmon season is in full swing and quite a few people we got to know last year have surfaced again, in search of that most delicious fish.

Our charter season has begun, complete with catered galas such as last night's, so our dockmates are feasting on the remaining New York steaks, smoked ono salad and other delights conjured for the evening's cruise. Every trip, we see more humpback whales and we've been having a great time, but the enormous numbers are still a few weeks away.

Steph has started the ball rolling to get biodiesel into Moss Landing for our vessels. It is made from soybeans, canola oil, even french fry and donut grease. To get fossil fuel out of the earth makes a mess and fossil fuel is not going to last forever. If you need more biodiesel, you grow it. Better yet, you recycle things such as tallow to make it. For vessels such as ours with wet exhausts, running on biodiesel is a cleaner alternative for the water than fossil fuels. For all diesel engines, it's superior. How cool would it be to get the ball rolling for biodiesel here on our country's largest marine sanctuary? VERY COOL.

So Steph called up Brian Ackerman, who runs the Zephyr for Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute and asked if he and his engineer would be interested in learning more about it. They were. Our chief engineer, Stephen, was not only interested for our boats, but for his boat and his diesel Mercedes as well. Dennis, who runs our fuel dock, was also intrigued. Biodiesel is very expensive right now, but the price will only drop with a rise in demand. So who will be the first to jump in? Unfortunately, the only states putting any effort, tax breaks or other incentives out there for consumers are the mid-west farming states that grow soybeans. No one in the current administration of good ol' oil boys could care less about a greener fuel.

So Steph arranged for a distributer to come down from the Bay Area to meet with us all and he echoed our sentiments that we are pioneers. Same as Steph and I were in starting In the Path of Giants, same as we were in forming Sanctuary Cruises and doing things differently on the Monterey Bay. Oh what the heck, why not jump in and start knocking these walls down, too?

Biodiesel is a fuel whose time has come as George W. eyes the Arctic for new oil drilling. And why shouldn't biodiesel get a boost here, in this sanctuary, which was formed primarily to keep oil drilling off our coast? Ask Congressman Sam Farr, ask former White House staffer Leon Panetta, ask the Monterey City Council; they will all tell you this. These waters were too fine to allow oil drilling, just as the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is too fine.

So what do you do if you drive combustion engines? You go green.

To run 100% biodiesel would double our fuel costs. We may be willing guinea pigs but we aren't powered by the Packard Foundation, so we'll start with B-20, a 20% mixture. Even in this quantity, engines run cleaner. Meanwhile, Steph is looking into grants that might help Dennis with the fueling facility and we will see if we can find something that might help us go to a higher blend. Remember, the more people who use it, the cheaper it will become. The more it's used, the lower our dependence on fossil fuel. Take a person with a vision (something Steph has in abundance) and a village joining hands to make it a reality and what can't be accomplished?

We fight the good fight. We pick up garbage on the bay. We recycle oily wastewater, engine oil and adsorb pads. We try to show by example that little things add up. Yesterday, there were three whale watching boats--including one of ours--watching a couple of humpback whales. There was a mylar balloon not far from them. Deirdre Hall was out with us. She works for the sanctuary and is about to get her Coast Guard license. Deirdre has been getting big boat time with us and did some driving yesterday. We feel like proud parents because we have been mentoring Deirdre and are impressed with all the hard work she's put in to make this a reality. She had just been explaining to our passengers that balloons kill giant leatherback turtles, even whales. I maneuvered Princess of Whales over to the balloon while our passengers and those on the other boats watched. Steph snagged the balloon and our passengers cheered. They were proud to be on the boat that made a difference, even a small one. Just once, I'd like to have to race another boat to pick up garbage. Just once. We shouldn't be unique, but we are. By supporting us, you are, too, so pat yourselves on the back. And buy Deirdre a beer if you run across her next week!

We are taking some time off. With the grand appearance of the big numbers of humpbacks right around the corner, we figured this was our moment. We won't run trips until April 24th, but we will be fresh, sassy and ready to go.

Our 3-5 hour whale watching cruises will depart Wednesdays through Sundays at 9:30 through the end of May, then we will shift back to 10:30 departures for the rest of the year.

Remember the hummingbird story? We got all sorts of great emails about it and them. Apparently this has been quite a spring for hummingbirds shipping out. A bunch of them were spotted on the Farallone Islands, way outside the Golden Gate!

By the way, this spectacular photograph of a humpback whale was taken by Marco Vaccari on Sanctuary. Wouldn't you love to get something like this? It can happen.

4/3/02: Humpbacks & Hummingbirds

On March 26th, Steph saw our first humpback whale of the season. Yesterday, a week later, I was on the boat when we saw two of them. They are a joy to watch. They seem to do things in slow motion compared with gray whales and they give us so many opportunities to get photographs that it's hard not to have a few real winners in a roll of film.

Many of our passengers had never been whale watching before and a few had never even been on a boat, so it was an exciting day all round.

Last Saturday, I experienced a first on the water. I was the victim of a drive-by-hummingbirding. We set out on our whale watching trip in dense fog and as it thinned out, several hummingbirds found us and hitched a ride. I was up top spotting on Princess of Whales and at first I heard the thrum of their wings near the back of my head. Passengers were watching and transfixed as the birds came closer and closer to me. I usually wear my Sanctuary Cruises hat and pull my hair out through the opening in the back. On Saturday, I wore the hat and a ponytail band with a big, glittery artificial flower on it. The birds hovered behind my head, trying to find nectar in the flower. I'd feel this little vibration as they tested the flower, but not finding anything, they'd pull away and try somewhere else. Surely something this bright must have some food! They nuzzled inside my collar and down my neck. Then they tried my ears. Still no nectar, so they moved to the front of my face. I closed my eyes, but could feel them go up my nose a couple of times! What a feeling that is. I laughed and spooked them away, but it didn't last long. Pretty soon they were back again and they stayed with us for quite a while before flitting off.

Driving to the harbor Easter Sunday, Steph and I talked about the hummingbirds. It was endearing that they came so close to me. I've never had so many wild birds so close. Maybe once or twice, I've had tired terrestrial birds who landed on the boats to rest hop on my finger briefly. But they didn't probe my flower and ponytail and they sure didn't examine my nasal cavities. It's a bonding experience.

It's the same way with whales that trust us enough to come up by the boat. But I felt I'd let the hummingbirds down. We did put a bowl of sugar water up by me later, but they didn't see it. Then they moved on.

"Well," I sighed, "I think I know what people feel when their kids grow up and fly away. I think I'm experiencing empty nest syndrome."

But our Easter passengers proved to be a cheerful bunch and we had great gray whales plus, super energetic Risso's dolphins that jumped farther out of the water than I can remember seeing before. We also saw a lot of Pacific white-sided dolphins and several sleek black northern right whale dolphins, which made for a real blast for all of us.

On the ride in, I wandered around pouring mimosas for the adults, which was our little Easter surprise.

It's neat how Sanctuary Cruises is evolving. Princess of Whales was described as a "Vehicle for Change" in an article and she is becoming just that. Because of her spaciousness and capacity, she's perfect for big events. We also can give hefty discounts to kids and conservation organizations that join us on open boat trips because their numbers help make up for the reduced rates charged. Everyone needs to get out on the water to see what's worth protecting. We like being part of that.

Reservations for the Pieter Folkens cruise May 12th are growing. Pieter illustrated the new National Audubon Guide to Marine Mammals of the World and he will be aboard to sign copies which may be reserved while making reservations.

We also will be hosting celebrated author Barry Lopez for an upcoming catered fundraiser for FANS of Elkhorn Slough and will be sending out more information soon.

All in all, I'd say things are going well. Spring is here and the Monterey Bay is filled with bait and more humpbacks arrive daily to gorge on it, as shown in this picture I took of them lunge-feeding. Yep, it's all going according to plan.

But I still miss my little birds.

3/27/02: Killer Whales, Lucky Grays & Our First Humpback!

This has been a week of musing, my typical spring reverie reflecting on past times and future directions. Sunday, I had a feeling something extraordinary was coming. We headed out onto a bright blue bay with happy people who rejoiced in being aboard Princess of Whales. Steph went up top to spot and I drove. I like driving boats. I enjoy the feel of the wheel, the rhythm of the swell. I note the wind direction, occasionally glancing back at the smokestacks in Moss Landing to see what the wind is doing there. I scan the water, looking for dolphins and whales, but I also appreciate the jellies, the tide rips, birds... I don't get to drive as much as I'd like to. There's the accounting to do. Shopping for the boats, ad design, even writing these updates; it takes me off the water. Driving along in the car recently, I found myself missing my old BMW motorcycle and mused over all the country roads I explored with her. Then I was pining for 18 wheelers, which I drove back in the 80's. I missed Big Red, my '64 Kenworth; she was the first big rig I ever drove. She had a 4x4 transmission which even then was a dinosaur compared with the infinitely easier 13 speeds. But as they say, "If you can drive this, you can drive anything," and I did. But I like driving boats the most and will be happy when we find the right help to take over some of my other chores. A housekeeper who pays attention to detail and has a great phone personality is at the top of my list, so if you know someone like that, pass it on.

Not long after leaving the harbor on a southwest course, Steph called me on the radio to report some splashing to the south, well inside the bay. I headed that way, explaining to our passengers that we weren't yet sure what it was but were going to investigate. It was a solitary gray whale, way inside the bay, headed for the beach, which is a rare sight. Not unheard of, but not common either. We watched it for a while but then peeled off. I explained a lone whale is often shy. This being a rather young whale, it might have been confused and didn't need us bothering it. Steph and I conjectured over the splashes he'd seen from a distance. It could have been the gray, but again that's not real common with a lone gray whale. I mulled this over as I turned Princess out to the west again.

Not long after I turned back out, Steph spotted another whale, also well inside the bay. I told our passengers about it, but elected not to slow down to watch it. It had blown three times and Steph had seen that from a mile or more away, but he never saw it again as we passed through the area. More odd behavior. Every day, we put a puzzle together out there. The pictures change, often the pieces don't fit together well. Nature wasn't created by Hasbro. I told our people about some of the reasons whales do odd things. Youth, confusion, playing. I left out "under attack," but said to Steph that I wondered if we didn't have orcas behind us where the first lone whale had been. That could have explained the splashing as they neared the whale or it thrashed its flukes fighting off an advance. Orcas can stay down for 15 minutes at a time and we could have missed them, although conditions were pretty darned calm.

Out in the zone where we can expect to see grays crossing the bay in good numbers, we fell in with several and they put on a lovely show. They made steady progress north, but they often rolled sideways, exposing half of their flukes out of the water as well as a pectoral flipper. One whale had a stunning white tail that glowed from beneath the surface. Two whales had lighter, mottled gray heads while a third had an almost black head. Then they were joined by one or two others. Everyone had great opportunities to take pictures and the general attitude was one of happiness. Mission accomplished. As we headed in, people stretched out in the lounge chairs, laid back in the sun; a few sipped beers as they chatted about what they'd seen. Steph went to do an engine room check and I plopped a little girl on my lap so she could help me drive. Ours was a contented ship.

Then I saw a glint of wet black out of the corner of my eye. Keeping my eyes trained on the area, I handed the little girl back to her dad and said I'd need to drive for a while. I pulled back on the throttles, nearly giving Steph a heart attack in one of the engine rooms ("Why are we stopping?" is an engineer's big concern and it's right up there for captains as well). I looked ahead to confirm what I thought. Yes! I picked up the microphone.

"ORCAS!!! Killer whales, ahead and left side!" Everyone bolted to the rails on both decks. There was a large male, then several females and juveniles and at least one pretty small baby. They had come from the general direction where we'd seen the lone grays earlier, so who knows? They might have been in there, sizing them up for attack. But orcas cruise the bay looking for the baby grays heading north with their moms. Although a few have been spotted south of here, we hadn't seen any gray calves northbound yet [we did Tuesday--our first cow/calf pair]. The orcas could easily have spooked the grays, running them off their course and farther inside the bay. Once the killer whales decided there were no easy pickings, they headed offshore again. That's where we connected.

We cruised along with the whales for several astounding surfacings. I always get excited when I see whales and dolphins. Each time is like the first time and I want to sing, laugh, give everybody beautifully wrapped presents. But then, that's what seeing something like this is, a present. We stayed on the orcas' course for a while, then saw they were heading toward the large pod of northbound grays we'd left. Steph warned people they might attack the grays, but probably not since there wasn't a calf in with them. The sleek black and white hunters made their way to the left of the grays. One orca diverted to check the grays more closely. There was a thrash as a gray whale warned them off with its flukes, but the orca had already moved on. No babies. Even so, the grays jammed against each other like sardines in a can and turned eastward, as though they might just tiptoe outta there anyway. We turned with the grays and got more looks at their mottled bodies glowing brilliantly under the surface as we made our own way eastward for home. Lucky whales.

We had whale hangovers. Life is good. And that's how our week ended. The next week began with an ending yesterday. We conducted a double burial at sea early in the morning. The burial party had flown in from Alaska, Florida and Southern California to say good-bye. I learned after the burial that for years, this couple had lived on their own boat in Redwood City at Pete's Harbor.

I lived on a boat at Pete's a long time ago. I remember driving a friend's boat as they fished for striped bass and the bite was good. Everyone said they'd never eat all the fish they were catching which was true enough, since I was slipping them back over the side almost as fast as they caught them. We brought in a few nice ones and everyone got to take home enough fish for a meal. I never could have imagined where I'd be 30 years later, or that we'd help fulfill the last wish of former neighbors who moved into Pete's not long after I left. Yesterday, the Monterey Bay was on its best behavior and the husband and wife's ashes joined it, as they had requested, together.

Today is Wednesday and Steph JUST called to announce our first humpback of the season. 4 1/2 miles from Moss Landing, why, practically in our back yard. Soon it will be followed by a whole bunch more as they converge on the bay to feed. Wahoo!

For Easter Sunday, a free mimosa will be waiting for passengers as they board. Bunny ears optional.