Sanctuary Cruises - Captain's Log

6/20/03: Whales in Ohio
Colleen Snyder told Steph when she made her reservation that she really wanted to see whales. She loves our web site, read a bunch of it and was beside herself with anticipation over today's cruise. Colleen lives in Ohio and she hasn't seen many whales there.

None to be precise.

So this was her day. We've had excellent humpback whale sightings the past several weeks as well as Risso's dolphins and orcas, but an hour into the trip, all they'd seen was one humpback whale. Don't ever think we don't get excited over one whale, but it was a fairly small whale and not in the rambunctious mood it was in a few days ago when it breached several times in a row.

Steph had to make a decision. Stay with this whale or go looking for something else. We call our cruises Whale Watching & Sanctuary Explorations for a reason. There are all kinds of cool things out there and even though most people come for the whales, they get a real kick out of dolphins, sea birds, jellies and other creatures. Hard as it might be to leave a whale with no guarantee of seeing others from the cast of characters out there, Steph headed off toward some key areas on the bay.

When we spoke a little later, I steeled my self and asked how it had gone.

"I'd hoped we might see a more cooperative humpback, but we didn't, he replied. I cringed slightly. "Instead we saw a blue whale! People on this boat are just jazzed!" That includes Colleen, who has never seen a whale and today, she saw two species, neither of which are seen in Ohio.

For the remainder of June, we're running Whale Watching & Sanctuary Cruises trips at 9:30 Tuesdays through Sundays (in July, we switch to 10:30 departures). Tickets are $37.50 for adults and $27.50 for kids 12 and under. Under 2 is free. Internet Specials are listed on our web site. Click the link below to see them. Reservations can be made by calling 831.643.0128.

If you're Monterey Bay Aquarium members, tell us when you make reservations and you'll get our conservation rate of 20% off, plus we'll make a donation to the aquarium to support their research, conservation and education efforts. Not a member? Consider joining! You'll not only get this discount but you'll be able to attend Members' Nights throughout the year.

By the way, next Saturday, June 28th, Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute will have its free open house. Located just past us in Moss Landing Harbor, MBARI's open house offers a fantastic look behind the scenes of the famed institution. It's from noon-5 p.m. There is time to go whale watching, then walk across the bridge to MBARI for the open house. That evening, Aquarium members can attend the Aquarium's Picnic by the Bay from 7:00-9:30. Bring your picnic and enjoy the aquarium after hours. It's a grand slam day for people who love the water and what's in it. See you out there!

6/6/03: The Wonder of It All

In 1984, I returned to the coast of California after living in Utah for eight years. A couple of successful businesses there kept me away from the ocean that long, but finally I made my way back and it's where I've spent the last 20 years. Twenty years. It goes by so fast.

I started a store in Princeton-by-the-Sea, less than a mile from where I'd grown up, and announced I was home. Heidi's Old Princeton Landing was a deli, a specialty coffee shop, a chandlery and a sailboard shop. It had a Beach Garden where folks could hang out and listen to music and a bar with 100 kinds of beer. It wasn't the store that was home, but the ocean. Soon, I'd be making my way onto the water.

When the Monterey Bay Aquarium opened, I couldn't wait to visit it. The first time I walked up to the impressive structure, I was giddy with anticipation and it didn't let me down. Watching the video presentation in the small theater, with its underwater footage perfectly choregraphed to music by Shadowfax, I had tears in my eyes at the conclusion. Tears! I will always remember Pepsi Cola underwrote that presentation and I believed they'd made a grand investment.

Those visits to the aquarium were pilgrimages. When a friend from Utah visited and got roped into working in the deli on a wildly busy Sunday, I rewarded her by taking her to the Monterey Bay Aquarium on Monday. Like me, she reeled in amazement at the enormous whales that hang suspended from the ceilings and at the mystical Giant Kelp Forest. But her true love was sea otters and to be able to watch them play and eat just inches from her face proved so captivating, I wondered how I'd ever drag her out of there. It was a quirk of fate that we'd stop in Moss Landing for a late lunch, but we missed seeing the sea otters that are so often found around the restaurant where we ate. Otters that I now point out as we drift by on our cruises.

To reward my employees at the Landing for a hard summer's work, I took them on an overnight adventure to Monterey. We stayed at the Monterey Bay Inn with our rooms over the water. Otters twirled in the kelp below as we had our coffee in the morning, then we set off to the aquarium for another expedition into the hidden world that had such a hold over me. It wasn't just that it gave us glimpses into that world, it was that they were dedicated to protecting it.

I marveled over how someone like David Packard and his partner Bill Hewlett could have been be so good at business to have made the fortune they did, then for both to have become world-class experts at giving it away. Years later, I read The HP Way to better understand their unique approach. Philanthropy has run rampant in both families, but it's the Packard Foundation that built the Monterey Bay Aquarium. A couple of dear friends were architects on the project and I love hearing their stories about David Packard, who was actively involved in the entire process.

My favorite cap had long been a corduroy Monterey Bay Aquarium cap, so much so that when I left it on a sailboat I crewed on, it found its way back to me without any questions asked. As I was making what would become a permanent transition from my last shorebound business, I crewed on more boats. Eventually, one claimed my favorite cap. But my connection with the Monterey Bay Aquarium continued and even during 11 years in the northwest, I often made my way back to the former location of the Hovden Cannery on Cannery Row, including a trip celebrating having gotten my Coast Guard Master's License. This was the year before Steph and I met. I spent much of my time on that trip taking stock and asking myself, "What now?"

The aquarium has captivated Steph in the same way it has me. When we moved here to run our gray whale project In the Path of Giants in 1996, we had little money and everything we did have went to the project. Even so, we joined the aquarium and have been members ever since. One night, at a special event that included a buffet near the Outer Bay exhibit, I explained to others in line that the mussels being served were the bad ones, the ones who misbehaved in the Giant Kelp Forest.

"They have strict rules here," I explained, "and this is what a mussel gets for not following them." I glanced at a tall woman to my left and nearly dropped my plate when I realized it was Julie Packard. David and Lucille's daughter. The head of the aquarium. So much for the one chance to make a great first impression.

In 1999, Steph and I created Sanctuary Cruises. We dedicated it to showing people what's out there in our front yard and encouraging them to join us in fighting the good fight. We've given cruises away to schools and kids' groups as well as some of the people enjoined to protect this fragile world that's called a resource too often and a wonderland too little. We even took the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Board of Directors out for a free whale watching cruise and were tickled to find some of them are among the wealthiest people on the Central Coast. But bless their hearts, they came. And they were enchanted when we found a sperm whale on a day with dense fog to the water. No one on board--including Bill Douros, head of the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary--had ever seen a sperm whale and we delighted in this shared discovery.

Sanctuary Cruises turns four years old later this month. It's been an eternity of work. There have been too many sleepless nights, gut-wrenching decisions to make and challenges to overcome, but four years is nothing when it comes to creating a business. In that time, we've brought in Princess of Whales, the grandest vessel on the Central Coast. We've turned Moss Landing into a destination for people who used to drive by. Through Steph's perserverance, we've brought in biodiesel and convinced the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute to try it as well. Now the aquarium and MBARI plan to convert to biodiesel for all of their diesel engines. We've become a resource for scientists who need water and whale feces samples for their studies (you haven't really lived until you've been on one of our "Whale Poo Cruises" which can happen at any time out there).

And now, officially, today, we have become MONTEREY BAY AQUARIUM RECOMMENDED. The weight of those words isn't to be underestimated. The aquarium is the big gun in ocean conservation, education and research. In its almost 20 year history, it has never created a relationship like this outside of its walls. Before making its selection, aquarium employees rode every whale watching boat on the Monterey Bay, unbeknownst to any of us. They noted the cleanliness of the vessels, how the crews interacted with passengers and they checked the accuracy of the information conveyed to passengers. It's simple: a class act only wants to be associated with a class act, which explains why we're all very happy.

You can benefit from this relationship since we're now offering a hefty 20% discount on our cruises to members of the Monterey Bay Aquarium. The discount is good for everyone you have cards for, including Guest Cards. If you aren't a member, these discounts alone will make up a good portion of your membership fees and remember, it goes to a great institution that's fighting the good fight for all of us. In addition, we're donating a portion of your ticket price back to the aquarium to support their work. Click on the link below to check it out.

Could I have guessed, back when I first walked into the the Monterey Bay Aquarium with eyes the size of pie pans and mouth agog, that I'd be writing this now? I don't know. Stranger things have happened. But you do have to marvel at the wonder of it all, don't you?

6/3/03: What Could It Be?!
This is a brief update with a teaser at the end. More Friday! This past week, we had some exciting times on the Monterey Bay. We've seen whales every day the past few weeks. We've spotted our first blue whale of the year, our first humpback cow and calf of the year AND the official counters down at Piedras Blancas lighthouse reported the last gray whale cow and calf just straggled by on their way to the north. Not a bad average!

If you'd like to join us for one of our 3-5 hour whale watching cruises, give us a call at 831.643.0128 or 831.917.1042. They cost $37.50 for adults and $27.50 for kids 12 and under. Cruises run Tuesdays through Sundays at 9:30 through June, before switching to our summer-winter schedule of 10:30 departures.

Most of you already know about the Season's Pass for adults. It's good any time and for as long as you have it. It's $300.00 for 10 adult cruises which is a savings of $75.00. Folks kept asking, "But what about kids?" so we've created a Kids' Season's Pass as well. It costs $200.00, is good for 10 cruises for kids 12 and under and it also has no expiration date. Use it all in one day or once in a while throughout the year. You could give it as a fantastic birthday present to several kids in a family (a dandy gift idea for grandparents).

Okay, here is the teaser: On Friday, we will put out an email update that is really exciting. It will announce a first-of-its-kind association between us and an organization we think the world of and have promoted as a great example of a business doing the right things for the best reasons. The term "Match made in heaven" has been mentioned more than once. Best of all, it may very well have a wonderful impact on YOU. Intrigued? Stay tuned for Friday's update. See you out there.

5/28/03: The Long Way to Monterey Bay
Look at this picture. I took it on Mother's Day of this year. So many days this spring have given us great experiences, making me reflect on how it is I came to be here. I think I might pinpoint diesel engines as partially responsible. I love diesel engines. Years ago, when a customer at my T-shirt store in Utah moved on from driving a big red Kenworth, I applied for the job and ran a couple of nights a week around my daytime store hours. Mind you, I didn’t know how to drive an eighteen wheeler when I applied, especially one of this vintage. Big Red had a 4 x 4 transmission, meaning two whole sets of gears and two gear shifts. The clutch meant little. If you didn’t have the rpm’s just right, she wasn’t going into gear. To learn to drive a big rig with her and the massive weight of sod was something like learning to play guitar by starting with a 12 string.

But driving truck along empty desert highways west of Salt Lake, a full moon washing the mountains with a silver spit shine and the exotic fragrance of Russian olive trees in bloom, I was complete. For then. In the morning when I wandered into my store, covered in the fine dust accumulated from loading and unloading my truck with pallets of sod by forklift, the romance would have worn off. But as soon as I fired up that truck, it would come dancin’ back.

Having grown up on this coast, you’d think I might have had a chance to take a turn at the wheel of a diesel vessel when I was a kid, but I didn’t. In fact, it would be over 30 years before I’d leave the shore bound businesses of my youth and run away to the sea I'd grown up next to. Tugboats were the big lure then and they transported me to places anyone can trace on a chart, but few will ever see and feel for themselves. Far out to sea on the Gulf of Alaska, I’d crawl up on the huge H bitt on the foredeck and survey my kingdom after my watch. Surprisingly, I saw little wildlife on that run. There were shy puffins that approached our tug and barge, but they wouldn’t light. I never saw a whale from a tug. They're found in those waters, but I didn't see one. However, the thrum of the engines and the swells that originated somewhere near Japan and now rocked the 137’ tug as they passed underneath from one side to the next were their own form of magic. It was a beam sea somewhere off the coast of Yakutat and it was perfect. For that moment.

Several lifetimes and professions later, here I am on the Monterey Bay. My conspiracy with diesel engines has endured and flourished. I have my own diesel engines--four of them--and they run on a blend of biodiesel because it's the right thing to do, even if it does cost more. I also have some of nature’s finest work all around me. Humpback whales breach and slap their tails and flukes. Sea lions swim as one in a churning riot. Consistent with this unusual spring, blue whales are already starting to show up! People from around the world will come here to see the blues because they are that big, that grand and that rare. They will see what I do for my work and they’ll say I have the job of a lifetime. To think diesel engines have brought me to this. All I had to do was hear their call and answer. And I had to be ready to go. Anywhere. See you out there.

Remember our cruises run at 9:30 through June, Tuesday through Sunday. Prices are $37.50 for adults, $27.50 for kids 12 and under and under 2 is free (if bringing kids under 2 free, other specials don't apply). You can make reservations by calling us at 831.643.0128.

5/19/03: Whales & the Rain Forest
An email sent to the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary office contained an unusual request. Dr. Frank E. Fish, Professor of Biology at West Chester University in Pennsylvania, was looking for the following:

Images of Humpback Whale Flippers Needed - I am examining the hydrodynamic morphology of humpback whale flippers. Specifically I need photographs of flippers in which the full planar surface (dorsal or ventral sides) is facing the camera and the whole flipper is shown from the insertion of the flipper with the body to the flipper tip...”

What did I get from my initial reading of the request when Deirdre Hall of the Sanctuary forwarded it to me? That is one cool name for a professor studying anything in the ocean! Steph and I have quite a few photographs of what we call “High Ones,” where the whales throw those marvelous pectoral flippers into the air. They often do it over and over. Some people call these flippers fins, but since whales are mammals, they have flippers. The ventral side is the underside of the flipper. The dorsal side is the top side, just as the fin on the top of the whales’ backs are called dorsal fins. Yes, fins.

If that confuses you, take it up with whomever named their body parts. Scientists seem so stuck on details, then they go do something like this. Maybe they swung by the pub on their way to sit down and attach names to anatomical features. All I know is, we’ve had some pretty glamorous whale researchers on board our boats and even they switch “fins” for “flippers” in describing pectoral appendages.

I dropped Dr. Frank E. Fish an email with several High Ones attached. He wrote back and thanked me, asking that I send any more that I might get this humpback season. Dr. Fish must have some pretty big juice because right after we exchanged emails, we were treated to one humpback slapping up a storm on the surface, showing off all of its pectoral flipper. Then another whale breached straight out of the water perhaps 150 feet from our boat! Big jump. Huge splash. I whizzed through a roll of film in minutes, collecting data for the good Ph.D. in Pennsylvania and great pictures for us.

It was a fine week all round. We were patronized again by a favorite little redhead named Sharky who informed us his class is, “Buying an anchor.”

“An anchor for what?” Steph asked.

“An anchor of the rain forest,” Sharky divulged seriously. “We’re going to save it. It costs $25 and my class is collecting bottles and cans to raise the money.” I kind of think Sharky meant an acre of rain forest, but whatever it is he’s going to save, we wanted to help. The wonderful seed of conservation that his teacher is planting has to be nurtured, now doesn’t it? So we sent Sharky off after the cruise with $5 and a big bag of bottles and cans from our recycling on Princess of Whales.

I’d hate to think an anchor of the rain forest would be lost just for the want of a few dollars.

Our brand new and yep, IMPROVED Sanctuary Cruises T-shirts are in and they're beautiful! The design Kirsten Carlson and I created is larger and now it's in white on navy blue, stonewashed blue, purple or red T-shirts plus assorted hooded sweatshirts. We have adult sizes through XXL and kid sizes S-L. With reservations for a party of 4 or more, you can get one free short-sleeved T-shirt (value to $20).

We're now running trips Tuesday through Sunday and since Memorial Day is Monday, the 26th, we will run that day as well. You can make reservations by calling (831) 643-0128. See you out there.

5/13/03: Humpbacks & the Rest of the Gang Are Here
The connection between phytoplankton, zooplankton, bait fish, salmon and humpback whales is as interwoven as the different colored threads in a tapestry. In the best of cases, it starts with clean water, which isn’t necessarily clear water. While the Monterey Bay can boast great visibility, in the spring we look for the plankton bloom, what the salmon fishers call “dirty water.” This is when there’s a chain reaction in population explosions, each of which, for the most part, feeds the next. The murky, nutrient rich waters host a feeding extravaganza of monumental proportions.

The past week, Steph and I joined the salmon fishers, including many of our dock mates in Moss Landing Harbor, out on the Bay. Often, we’re just a few hundred yards from each other as bait fish, salmon and humpback whales churn the waters. California sea lions will cluster in tight groups of up to several hundred and dive simultaneously. They will surface in the same proximity to each other. Then a huge, knobby whale’s head will rise out of the sea lion raft and after a powerful blow, the whale’s body will arc up, often followed by that gorgeous tail.

Criss-crossing this scene are the sport salmon boats and the commercial fleet, all hoping to snag a salmon without attracting the attention of a sea lion. These animals have become incredibly deft at chomping off most of the body of a salmon being reeled in. Little can compare with the thrill of a fish on your line or the disappointment of reeling in a fish head, but luckily they don’t get them all.

On some days, it seems we have the whales so well dialed in that we can call when and where they’ll surface every time. On a recent trip, I took full credit for my impeccable sense of timing and direction, but I was also quick to point out that there are days when the whales defy second-guessing. This makes a little light-hearted bragging okay when the planets align and it all unfolds seamlessly.

Unlike sea lions, humpback whales don’t eat the salmon. Being baleen whales, they take in mouths full of water and bait fish. They strain the water out through the stiff baleen plates that hang from their upper gums and then swallow the small fish left behind. A salmon would be too big for these giants of the sea, since their gullets are actually quite small.

So when we’re all out on the Bay, each taking something from it if they’re lucky, it’s worth our while to take a moment and celebrate its bounty. Who would want to be anywhere else, unless of course they’re a fish?

Trips are Wednesdays through Sundays at 9:30. They're 3-5 hours long and cost $37.50 for adults and $27.50 for kids 12 and under. Passengers have been getting great photos and video, as you can see here from David Tillotson's efforts on Mother's day. Princess of Whales will be running both of the upcoming weekend cruises. See you out there.

5/4/03: The Humpbacks Are Here!
There are times when my job is so gratifying that I am sure nothing else could be as rewarding. This weekend was one of those times. Much of the year, we're asked what's the best time to go whale watching. It depends on what you'd like to see, we answer. But if humpbacks are your goal, come in the spring when they first arrive from a winter's fast in southern waters.

Although we saw our first humpback earlier than usual this spring, the bait was slow to concentrate in Monterey Bay so the whales have been as well. But just this weekend they arrived with all of the excitement of the circus and momentum of a freight train!

Yesterday, we saw at least thirteen animals including a couple of favorites from years past. They were only a few miles from Moss Landing Harbor so in a four hour trip, well over half of it was in the company of whales.

Today, there were even more humpbacks. Nearly all of our trip was spent with whales because they were located just beyond the MLA buoy outside of the harbor. At times, with Princess of Whales sitting near a haystack of bait (which we could see on our depth sounder), we had up to six whales bursting to the surface all around us. All we had to do was sit there and let the pageant unfold.

We love it when people choose whale watching with us as a way to mark an important day. Some of our passengers were celebrating birthdays, including a little guy who told his mom in no uncertain terms that this was what he wanted to do to mark the big 4. Imagine kids his age who know far more about whales and dolphins than their parents. We see it all the time, the connection between young minds and grand beings in the sea.

We also had people for whom we had run a burial at sea earlier in the morning. Although it can be a sad event, this one was a celebration. They said good-bye and scattered the ashes of their mother, a woman who had enjoyed a long life. Then they saw the humpbacks' blows a little farther offshore and even the distant blows had them screaming with excitement.

"If you thought those blows were cool," I told them, "you won't even believe what we're going to see today." So they turned right around, joined us for whale watching and had an extraordinary experience. We had whales that surfaced right next to us. We had "drive by humpbackings" with several whales cruisin' past us throwing up huge, stinky plumes (feeding whales have very ripe breath). It was dizzying watching so many arched backs and flukes.

Even though I was shooting pictures like crazy, I had plenty of time to just put down my camera and watch one of the most beautiful whales I have ever seen because the Minolta was busy going, "WHIR-WHIR-WHIR-WHIR" as it rewound the roll of film. How I hate that sound. With no time to reload, I stood in awe as the whale approached us from behind. I was able to examine the knobby face and its sensuous muscled body as it steamed past our port side. Too bad I won't have a photograph of it, but that's a picture I'll just have to hold in my head and heart. It won't be hard. I suspect that quite a few people from today's trip will see the same image and hear that explosive blow tonight as they fall asleep.

The coming week may well be one of the best of the year for whale watching, plus Mother's Day is May 11. See you out there.

4/30/03: Celebrations on Monterey Bay
We sometimes run whale watching cruises where the majority of our passengers are not only known to us, but have become friends. This happened recently on Princess of Whales when a large birthday contingent of Freeman-Pagelers converged with anniversary celebrants, UCSC’s recreation department and others. Our skipper, Bill Rehmke, was running a charter on Sanctuary. He’d seen a gray whale between the Moss Landing jetties earlier, prompting Steph to wonder if orcas were nearby. Top of the food chain predators, they do have an amazing way of emptying the bay. However, birthdays often bring special sightings. Which would it be?
An hour into the cruise we were still in the zero column. No whales. No dolphins.

Two of our passengers were Canadian women who had been on one of our cruises before, but Steph and I hadn‘t run that trip. They thought it would be okay to meet us, but were most interested in seeing Fluke and Rumba, our dogs. Luckily, Steph and I have egos that can take such treatment. Plus, we were relatively secure in knowing Fluke and Rumba, unlike whales and dolphins, would appear for the passengers on demand. A good fall-back never hurts.

A party atmosphere prevailed as people met and chatted. Scanning the blue sea, I listened to the laughter and animated discussions below. Off Point Pinos, Bill on Sanctuary called to tell us he had a bunch of orcas. We headed that way and they proved to be the same whales we have seen a lot recently. Marine mammal eaters, they appeared to be finishing off an underwater meal and stayed in the same area for a very long time.

Calm seas, a beautiful sunny day and everything from small orcas to the full-grown males with their towering dorsal fins provided exactly what one might expect for our young birthday celebrants. What little boy doesn’t love Keiko? After numerous surfacings and photo opportunities, we traced the shoreline of Cannery Row and were rewarded by a beautiful pod of Risso’s dolphins.

And the Noacks, our anniversary couple? They first learned about us at the Monterey Bay Aquarium when Dick Russell gave a presentation on his book Eye of the Whale. Dick said we were the folks to whale watch with, so Denise and Tom tried us and have become regulars every couple of months. Here is what Denise wrote after Sunday's cruise:

"Each time we go out we say, 'This was better than last time!' Well, Sunday, was truly the best! It was destiny that we would see orcas. We have both been wanting to see them since they appeared in your log about a year ago. Anyway, Friday night Tom had a dream that we were surrounded by orcas, then on Sunday morning I gave him his coffee in a mug that had orcas on it - 'Drink this and you will surely see orcas!' I said as I gave him the special concoction. Well, the spirits and powers that be were with us - WOW!" The Noacks’ anniversary present was complete.

The cruise ship Mercury was in Monterey, so we made a slow pass by her. Ships of all kinds are fascinating. I ran a business in Sitka, Alaska that catered to the cruise ships. My passengers delighted in circling their vessels in smaller boats before we headed out to our floathouse for their sea kayak tour. While I celebrate the boost cruise ships can give local economies, not all cruise lines have proven to be responsible operators.

Serendipity found Anne Rowley and Dawn Martin of the ocean advocacy group Oceana out with us. Dawn talked to our group about the potential effects of cruise ships on Monterey Bay. A cruise ship with 3,000 passengers produces 30,000 gallons of raw sewage a day. Add to that the chemicals from dry cleaning services, photo processing, industrial cleaners and more to perceive the enormous threat if this is pumped into the bay and sea (it isn't enough to only protect near shore waters). While one could learn of the huge stakes through a Power Point presentation, nothing could match the impact of encircling a towering city on the water while listening to the staggering facts and figures. Oceana, the City of Monterey, the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary and others are working to make sure cruise ships here are a win-win situation for everyone. The goal should be to adopt Alaska’s stringent laws for overboard pumping of waste. They work for everyone.

We know Anne Rowley well from her work with Save Our Shores and are always impressed by her enthusiasm, knowledge and lack of non-productive anger. While others can rail over the plight of endangered ecosystems and insist there’s no hope, Anne just ramps it up and takes her fight to a higher level. With Washington, D.C. based Oceana, she’s playing ball with the heavy hitters in no-nonsense terms. As her email tagline says, “3/4ths of the world is worth a minute of your time.” You can learn more about Oceana and check out the green-rating of cruise lines you might be considering patronizing by going to www.Oceana.org.

Heading back to Moss Landing, our birthday boys shared their cake with the other passengers. Fluke and Rumba got their usual lavish attention. I moseyed around, chatting with folks on the sundeck, the bow, in the main cabin. It was a day to rejoice and be glad in.

See you out there.

4/21/03: Orcas, Humpbacks, Dolphins & the Brits
The past week was rewarding on many levels. First, Sanctuary's new engine is in and her sea trials went great. Some folks can run a boat for months, even years, knowing there is a major problem about to happen. We don't operate that way. Just as we fret when we take one of the dogs or cats to the vet, neither of us felt complete until Sanctuary was back in action. Welcome back, Girl.

Also, we have had some dazzling sea life on the Monterey Bay. On Friday, we headed out with Princess of Whales and people from as far away as England and Salinas. Several bay area parties had never been out with us, including a couple that recently moved here from Missouri. The Brits, oddly enough, showed up in 3 rented RV's although they were 2 different groups who had no idea the other would be on board.

I really admired them for their pluck. They were cheerful, up for anything and their holidays had provided just that. They wandered the back roads, even checked out a lake Steph and I considered going to on our RV vacation. We didn't take the detour but the Brits' glowing recommendation will get us there for sure. In fact, I have a long list of things to check out based on their brief time spent in my birth state, so there you have it.

Also high on the list of rewarding moments was when, unprompted by us, one of the big research ships out of Moss Landing called me on the VHF radio as I drove onto the bay Friday. They wanted to tell me where they'd seen whales the day before. It was especially nice since they sure don't have to do it. It was the act of a generous spirit and I will reward that spirit and the others on board with home-baked cookies later in the week.

The bay's weather and the forecast Friday didn't mesh and we had a bouncy chop to work out against on that cruise, but there were the Brits and many others, lining the bow and refusing to move when warned of the possibility of a splash. All motioned ahead as though saying, "Press on! Faster!"

Our winter dolphins--the commons--are season hopping; we saw several hundred of them within 3 miles of Moss Landing. They provide a marvelous start to the day. But heading farther out to an area that's often good for humpbacks, we encountered more wind and for a while, I thought of scrubbing the trip. The locals could return, but not the Brits. They had raved about their holiday so far and I hated to disappoint them because they really wanted to see whales in addition to the dolphins. When a fisher inside of us reported a couple of humpbacks, we gladly put our stern to the seas and sashayed their way.

These humpbacks were just ripping it up and displaying all of the classic behavior we hoot over. They screamed out of the water, throwing big, bushy blows from their blowholes as they charged forward. They slapped their long pectoral flippers and one threw the entire lower third of its body out of the water in a saucy, "Look at me!" way.

Their course was to the west so once we arrived on the scene, we had to work against the swell again but the Brits were glued to the bow and refused to budge. Sometimes if we see dolphins first, whales seem rather ponderous and boring by comparison, but not these two. They were a grand spectacle to behold and greatly appreciated by our passengers.

The next day, we had calmer seas and once again, common dolphins a few miles from port. I was spotting up top on Princess of Whales and just as we got to the dolphins, I noticed some large splashes moving our way from outside. I was sure I saw tall dorsal fins but checked with the binoculars before telling Steph. Not only were orcas headed our way, but they grew in numbers from 3 to 7 to 9 to 15 or more! Three were fully grown males with magnificent dorsal fins. Two of the females had unique enough saddle patches and dorsals that it should be easy to photo ID them. I got a lot of pictures--including the one here which includes a calf--and sent them on to Ken Balcomb who does orca ID work up in the Puget Sound.

Spring has certainly pounced on us with all of its incredible possibilities. Gray whales are still going by, orcas are here in big numbers, humpbacks are putting on their acrobatic shows and dolphins are dancing around the bay as though it's the only place to be. Well it is now, isn't it?

Upcoming special events: May 4th is our second annual book-signing cruise for Audubon's fantastic Guide to Marine Mammals of the World with scientific illustrator Pieter Folkens. This is also a whale watching cruise and in prime humpback time. We will have Jim Nahmens of Nature Spirit Photography with us as well along with a full array of his marine mammal waterproof field guides, notecards, Discovery Cards and much more which may be purchased on Princess of Whales. Regular rates apply even though this is a cruise with a lot of added value! For groups of 6 or more, we will include a signed copy of the book, a $24.95 value. Be sure to request the book!

We're in our spring schedule of 9:30 departures for our 3-5 hour trips.

Adults are $37.50 and kids 12 and under are $27.50. Under 2 is free but if that option is exercised, other discounts can't be applied. Call us at 831.643.0128 for reservations.

And finally, we are looking for a part-time person to handle bookkeeping duties, phones and some errands. Experience with Quickbooks is necessary and a great phone demeanor is essential. Drop us an email if you'd like to talk about it. Our email address is sanctuary@montereybay.com or go to Talk to Us on the web site. See you out there.

4/16/03: Easter Weekend on the Monterey Bay
This is Easter Week. The Easter egg hunt was a big deal for our little coastal community when I was a kid. Most of us dreamed of finding the coveted silver or gold eggs that brought grand prizes. I never did, but my sister Jan found both one year. Another year, heavy rains continued all day but we went about our business in the egg hunt's cypress grove with raucous determination. Rain, mud, candy. What could be better? Even though I've long since hung up my basket, I still feel a kid's excitement at the approach of the big day. This year, it appears Easter egg hunts will be under sunny skies and with mild temperatures. Cool.

This will be our first weekend back after a storm blew us out last week, so we're anxious to get out there. Friends have reported seeing orcas, more early blues nearby, humpbacks and gray whales as well as dolphins. With calm conditions in the forecast Friday through Sunday, it should be a great time to be on the Bay.

On Easter Sunday, we will offer free Odwalla orange juice or a mimosa (OJ and champagne) to each passenger. Just adults get the mimosa option, which is only fair since we're excluded from egg hunts. If you wear your bunny ears like Fluke is, we will give you a free whale's tail keychain/zipper pull.

On a more serious note: The sea otter world took several hits lately. Three otters died of apparent boat strikes around Moss Landing. Then a badly injured otter was brought to the Monterey Bay Aquarium for treatment. It had to be euthanized due to the extent of the injuries, also consistent with a boat strike.

Please remember that boating requires paying close attention all around, especially ahead of the vessel. Sea otters are usually found within a mile or two of shore, but Steph and I have seen them 10 miles and more from the beach. In addition, ancient giant leatherback turtles will soon be appearing around the Monterey Bay. Keep an eye out, okay?

And finally, the otters lost a good friend from the human side of the equation. Richard Sherer, director for the center of Friends of the Sea Otter, died suddenly while at work last week. He was 54. Friends and family are devastated and deeply saddened. He will be missed by all. See you out there.

4/9/03: Three Otters Killed in 10 Days!
Melissa Miller is a friend. She works for California's Department of Fish and Game Marine Wildlife Veterinary Care and Research Center. She's the vet who does necropsies on dead otters from our area and she is hopping mad. Why? Because three otters have been killed in 10 days. They are suspected victims of boat strikes and the timing would suggest the sport salmon season which opened a week and a half ago. As hundreds of boats headed out to fish, it would seem some of their operators were less than careful to look for marine life ahead of them, especially the smaller ones.

This breaks our hearts. Two of the otters were males in their prime. One was found on the beach outside of Phil's Fish Market and Eatery in Moss Landing last Saturday just minutes after it died. It had severe chest trauma, which Melissa says is consistent with a boat strike. We want to help Mellisa spread the word and can use your help. Please contact friends and family who boat on Monterey Bay and encourage them to keep their eyes open for sea otters. Also, remind them if they're in the area with whales and dolphins not to charge at them. Most boaters are respectful and considerate, but some just don't know any better and could use a gentle reminder of the law and common sense.

Some general guidelines which we practice: Otters are highly endangered. They spend most of their lives on the water. They have the ultimate right of way and should be steered clear of. Don't alter their behavior. Don't approach at any speed, especially high speed. And certainly don't expect them to get out of the way of a boat.

With whales, never approach head on or at high speed. Ease into their area and give them a wide berth. Paralleling them well off to one side is best. Don't race ahead of the animal and then stop in its path. Don't alter its behavior. You can see a lot from several hundred feet away. If the animal chooses to come your way, take your boat out of gear and sit. It's the only honorable way to get a close sighting.

With dolphins, cruise along outside the main pod. You may well find some race your way to play on your bow wave or along your boat's wake. Keep a steady speed and only make gradual turns, nothing abrupt. Never charge through the pod at high speed, especially head on. If you find your boat encircled by them, maintain a steady speed and course.

As we say our cruises, "This is their world, their home and we're the guests. We need to be thoughtful guests." If you have information regarding a dead or injured sea otter, contact Dr. Melissa Miller at (831) 469-1746. See you out there. Heidi

4/8/03: The Joys of Spring & Great Coffee
What a crazy week we have had. Make that several weeks. Our earliest Humpback. Our first Fin Whale. Then last Thursday, we had mating Gray Whales that were so carried away with each other that they headed for us with gusto. Well, they were doing something with gusto but maybe heading our way is a bit of a stretch. We had a bunch of kids from a charter school out with us and they learned a lot about the Gray Whales' approach to foreplay.

I was on top of the bridge on Princess of Whales with my camera, the one I have such a love/hate relationship with. The ocean was flat and glassy. We had Pacific White-sided Dolphins in every direction. We call them P-Dubs. Finally Steph put the boat in neutral and went out on the sundeck to enjoy it all. We'd been watching the Grays from several hundred feet away when they made a turn and came toward us, blowing sideways at the surface, doing barrel rolls, embracing each other with their pectoral flippers.

I took pictures like crazy; there was no time to wage my internal debate over whether the pictures I was seeing would be the pictures on the film. I frantically changed film as the whales closed the distance on us. Steph ran down to the main deck and when the whales finally were at the boat and had to turn, he could have reached out and touched them. As if that weren't enough, then we saw a huge concentration of P-Dubs, possibly the biggest pod we've ever seen. What a spectacular day and experience.

Saturday started pretty and mild but a wind line came in from sea and turned the bay into a snorter. Sunday was the opposite. Another gem of a day with calm seas and a lot of people who wanted to see whales. We had high expectations, but saw no whales. However, we did see thousands upon thousands of dolphins. First came hundreds of Common Dolphins near Moss Landing Harbor. We knew they were there because we'd conducted a burial at sea earlier and the dolphins had appeared just after the ashes flowed into the sea green water.

For miles, we spotted P-Dubs in ones and twos. Then in small groups. Then larger groups. The bay was alive with them. Just as I announced they often travel in the company of Northern Right-whale Dolphins and to look for the sleek, black dolphins without dorsal fins, there they were. We cruised along, enjoying the day, scanning for whales but aware that what we had was pretty special in its own right.

A large pod of Risso's Dolphins completed our day and made for such an exquisite day that no one felt shorted at not having seen whales. As one couple who just moved to California put it, "That means we have to come back; and we will!"

We've always had great, fresh coffee on our cruises but it is about to get even better. We have joined forces with Thanksgiving Coffee Company which is a great company located up in Fort Bragg, in Mendocino County. They sell Fair Trade, Certified Organic Coffees. Coffee growers too often get peanuts for their product, but not so with Thanksgiving, which is a cool company with a big heart and great spirit. They also use biodiesel in their vehicles, giving us another big reason to carry their coffee. If the name rings a bell, you might have put it together that the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Portola Cafe also sells Thanksgiving Coffee.

To support The Blue Dolphin Alliance, which works to foster conservation and protection of marine life, we plan to carry their beautiful, vacuum-packaged bags of Thanksgiving Coffee on Princess of Whales. And here is another great tie-in: It was about a year ago that Steph started the ball rolling with biodiesel here. He got Captain Brian Ackerman and his engineer Lance Wardel to try it for their MBARI vessel Zephyr. They, like us, approved mightily of the fuel. They found researchers experienced less seasickness thanks to the use of the vegetable oil fuel and we have noted our passengers do better with biodiesel. Now, both the Aquarium and Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute are working on plans to go to biodiesel for all of their diesel needs. Never underestimate the power of a few dedicated people, hmm?

We are chartered Friday, so no open boat cruises then. But we have cruises scheduled Saturday and Sunday at 9:30.

And finally, don't forget the Pieter Folkens whale watching cruise May 4th. We will have copies of the National Audubon Society's Guide to Marine Mammals of the World for sale on Princess of Whales. Pieter did the scientific illustrations for the book and will be there not only to tell us about his work with cetaceans but to sign the books for you. Be sure to reserve your book(s) when making reservations and don't forget, this cruise is one week before Mother's day, just in case Mom loves whales... See you out there.

4/2/03: Fin Whale!
Last Sunday, we thought we saw a blue whale. In fact, we thought we saw two of them. Their blows are tall and narrow and the two whales were miles away at first, but there were definitely two out there. On March 7th, we were sure we saw a blue whale but the whale never materialized. Conditions were deteriorating and so we moved on to see some northbound grays. Then friends down in Cambria reported blues have been seen down there. This is early by a few months, but it was a mild El Nino winter, so who knows how the balance might have been tweaked.

On Sunday, we had to wait twenty minutes after seeing the series of tall blows from a distance before we sighted one of the whales but there it was, blue gray in color, ENORMOUS, that shovel-shaped head and tiny dorsal fin. But as Steph noted, it wasn't as tiny as most blues' dorsal fins are, so he tried to catch a peek of the head, looking for the chevron markings that would positively identify the whale as a fin, second only in size and mass to blue whales. It took several minutes, but he was able to finally confirm it.

Although we saw the other tall blow from a distance, the two never connected. After watching the one fin for quite a while, I spotted several grays and so we headed off to see them. It rounded out a cruise that had begun quite nicely with a pod of common dolphins.

Pretty exciting stuff. In just two weeks, we've seen our first humpback, lots of northbound gray whales and various dolphins, gray cows and calves are going by, we have been visited by orcas (including L pod from the northwest) and now this, our first fin in Monterey Bay in March. I'd have included a photograph since Gary Rather was out with us (he got the great gray breach recently), but he hasn't sent the photo yet and I wanted to get this update sent.

We've pulled Sanctuary out of service so she can get a new engine. This is our version of "baby needs new shoes" and boy, are they expensive. But she's a peach of a boat and as soon as Steph determined she needed the job, he scheduled it. So for the next week and a half or so, we will run a modified schedule with Princess of Whales. Trips for Thursday (tomorrow), Saturday and Sunday are scheduled, with departure time at 9:30 now through June. Trips are $37.50 for adults, $27.50 for kids 12 and under and under 2 is free. They are 3-5 hours long and as for what you might see out there, it's safe to say just about anything. Reservations can be made by calling 831.643.0128. See you out there.

3/23/03: Gorgeous Forecast & Great Whales & Dolphins
When people call to make reservations, they often ask what the forecast is for their date. We rely on a weather forecast put out by a very bright guy who works for the state, National Weather Service Monterey Bay forecasts and our local TV station's meteriologist to get an idea of what's coming. Often the story is muddy, with varying forecasts, necessitating the use of a crystal ball, which can also be murky.

This Friday, Saturday and Sunday are exceptions. They are being described as the best spring has to offer. Clear, warm, sunny with an offshore breeze. It doesn't get any better than that. Or as one meteriologist put it, "If Thursday through Sunday were puppies, Thursday would be the runt of the litter. This is going to be a beautiful Bay Area weekend!"

Add to this the astounding variety of marine life we're seeing. Last Sunday, it was our first humpback of the season plus 5-6 orcas, all very close to Moss Landing Harbor. Yesterday, we saw 3 different species of dolphins, including what was possibly the oldest Risso's dolphin we have ever seen.

These dolphins are very dark at birth, then they lighten from the head back with age. There were two that were much lighter, but one was nearly all white. It looked magical, ghosting along with the other dolphins which included rocketing Pacific White-sided Dolphins and Northern Right Whale Dolphins. We also saw 2 Gray Whales yesterday and Steph paralleled them perfectly. So you can see what I mean when I tell people it's anyone's guess what we'll encounter in the next 3 days. See you out there!