Sanctuary Cruises - Captain's Log

3/10/03: The Road Less Traveled
Our plans for Baja went into the toilet. We had a little over a week for a vacation. Gas prices hit an all-time high as we headed southeast last week with Fluke, Rumba and all 3 cats. We hoped for warm desert days by some water and we got it, spending a couple of days alongside the Colorado where the dogs could swim, Steph could cook using his new dutch oven and all of us could experience the work of doing nothing or at least not much.

It can hardly come as a surprise that we aren't accustomed to heading off without a destination or that shiftlessness isn't a natural state for us, but we acclimated nicely. After a few days of hot desert, we headed up toward the Grand Canyon. My first and only time there previously was on a spring hitchhiking trip a long time ago. I was 16 or 17. I remembered being at Grand Canyon on Easter. It was bitter cold and even snowed, so I hauled my sleeping bag into the rest room and slept on the heated floor.

Over 30 years later, there we were. A chilly wind was blowing when we arrived, but it was sunny and even warm in protected areas. The canyon still took my breath away. It's stunning beyond belief. I insisted we take a picture of the girls on the South Rim--on one of their Camp K-9 beds--so we could send the picture to Kitty at Cascade Designs ("Dear Aunt Kitty," they would write, "Guess where we went!"). Steph wanted nothing to do with it. We discussed the matter. Lunacy reigned over reason. As I arranged the bed and the dogs, we gained an audience.

The Grand Canyon has this in common with the Monterey Bay: Both are incredible and both attract visitors from all over the world. After I took two shots of the dogs, one of our onlookers suggested he take a picture for us. This is something we do almost every day on our boats, offering to take shots so the photographer can be in the picture. Since we're so rarely on the receiving end, it came as a delightful surprise.

We bicycled along the south rim the next day, wearing out the dogs and ourselves. Then we settled into our cozy RV with a dutch oven stew that evening as the wind rose and dense clouds blew in. Late that night we awoke to see a thick blanket of snow on the trees and ground outside. "It's perfect," Steph whispered. It wasn't baby whales or freshly made tortillas, but it was in its own way perfect. Thank goodness we had the ability to see it.

The following morning, Fluke and Rumba got their introduction to snow. Fluke was frisky, Rumba was sulky. No boats, no dolphins, why bother? I took the two black cats out to see the snow and they were very interested, but Possum remained in her command position down in the wheel well with an expression similar to Rumba's. We made our way to Flagstaff, completely awed at the cold and snow. It was spring back home just days before and in the southern desert, it already appeared to be summer. Then it was down to Sedona and that steep red canyon was staggering not only for its beauty but the thundering water bursting over the boulders. Many communities are located across the river, accessed only by driving through the usually paltry stream. They were completely cut off by this torrent.

"I'm afraid to say what kind of weather we haven't had on this trip," Steph admitted. The next day, we found ourselves driving over the pass near Jerome, which was a mining ghost town on my last visit. Now it houses such upscale shops in its lopsided old buildings that one has a $30,000.00 opal brooch for sale (worth every penny, too--you should see it). Snow was falling gently as we climbed higher into the mountains and before we descended into the Prescott Valley, we would be eeking along over thick, fresh snow on an ever decreasing track of roadway.

Heading west again, we camped on the California side of the Colorado River. This place was so beautiful, we drove 30 miles out of our way to get to it, $2.19 a gallon gas be damned. I'd badgered Steph to do it after we saw the shoreline from the Arizona side. I explained I could see us drinking our morning coffee there the next day. So that night, we started a mesquite barbecue and sat in our sand chairs with a rum drink like we thought we'd be drinking in Baja. The full moon hung over the river in a clear, black sky. Tranquility. Until a wind as ferocious as some of the best we've experienced on the ocean whipped in, obscuring the sky and blowing sparks from the mesquite coals like a devil's wand. Next came rain. Then it was over.

In the morning, Steph woke me from a deep sleep. "You said you wanted to enjoy the beautiful morning," he explained, "and it is; I knew you wouldn't want to miss it." He was exactly right. The sun took a long time pulling free from the red-orange rocks so artfully arranged across the serene river. I sipped coffee while watching a duck make its way upstream.

We live in a spectacular place and I doubt anyone appreciates the marine life we see more than us. But I also know until this trip that we didn't appreciate Arizona with its fire opal canyons and ever-changing vistas nearly enough. It offered a kaleidoscope of spring flowers, snowfalls and erratic temperatures, not to mention some very nice people such as the rangers at Deadhorse Ranch Campground. But most of all, it gave us another view and we returned refreshed.

Back home, we were greeted by the news from Northwest orca researcher Ken Balcomb that members of L pod have been seen down here recently. This is the second time they've been seen so far south and now Ken is trying to I.D. the orcas we've seen to figure out if any are part of L pod. If you were out with us the last few weeks and got good orca shots, send them along and we'll forward them to Ken.

In April, we switch to our spring schedule and cruises depart at 9:30. Our Internet Special remains "Pay for 4 and Bring 1 More (Free)." Can't get 5 people who agree on anything, much less when to go whale watching? We'll give you $5 off for 2 or more. Whichever special you choose, it absolutely must be requested at the time you make your reservations. You can make them by calling us at 831.643.0128.

And finally, my "On the Bay" column in the Salinas Californian is moving up! After this weekend, it moves from the Travel page in the Saturday-Sunday issue to the front page of the Living section on Mondays. Check it out online at: www.californianonline.com
See you out there.

3/10/03: A Kink in the Plans for Baja
So there we were, poised on the brink of a vacation in Baja, a visit to Campo Cortez at San Ignacio Lagoon and a chance to see the baby gray whales. We had our little RV serviced, the dogs were practicing their Spanish and progressing nicely. Our relief skipper Scott and our deckhand Noel were ready to take over for us on Sanctuary, so we wouldn't have to shut down after all. We were seconds from a clean getaway.

Then Phil called from the harbor. Dredging was to begin in two days. They'd get to where Princess of Whales is docked in a few more days. Probably. You never know with dredging. We'd have to be here to move her out and then back into her slip. There was no way we could get to Baja in anything but a mad dash and if that's how a vacation has to be handled, why bother?

No baby gray whales, shrimp tacos in Mulege or margaritas at Campo Cortez this year, but as my mom always said, it wasn't meant to be if so many roadblocks arose. So, a shift of gears. Fluke and Rumba are trying to decide between snowboard lessons, a romp through Yosemite or some southern desert action. It's a good thing dogs are so flexible.

This has been an outstanding season for whales and dolphins. Gray whales are heading north in very good numbers, common dolphins have been seen on over half of our cruises and so have Risso's dolphins. Common dolphins have given us this wonderful experience seen here so many times this winter! We have had orcas in the neighborhood a lot and humpbacks have been sighted down around Piedras Blancas as well as farther offshore from the Monterey Bay, which augers well for an early arrival of them in the bay. Last Friday, we even saw the trademark blow of a blue whale, very tall and narrow, but we couldn't hang around long enough to confirm it. It's anyone's guess what's coming next but there's one thing we do know. The Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary just rocks with fascinating life!

Scott and Noel are running our regular schedule Wednesday-Sunday at 10:30 and we will be back on the 20th. We'll handle phones, so if you'd like to make reservations, give us a call at 831.917.1042. Our Internet Special of Pay for Four and Bring One More (Free!) is still good (least expensive ticket is free). Or, for those of you on email updates, we're offering a $2.50 discount per person through 3/20 if you ask for the "No Margaritas" discount (your choice of special; they may not be combined). Leave a message if necessary and we will call you back. See you out there, somewhere!

3/3/03: A Killer Birthday Present from the Whales
We’ve had a week of stunning experiences on the Monterey Bay. It began with a large pod of killer whales last Friday. Steph ran that trip and he had several cool people aboard, including Carroll Briggs, a guy who is most at home on the sea and has spent a considerable amount of time out there, and Joann Siemsen, a woman who has a wonderful way of making people feel relaxed and comfortable. Both emailed rave reviews about their day with the orcas.

We didn’t spot the killer whales Saturday, but a dark and blotchy ocean calmed in the afternoon to an azure expanse seemingly filled with languidly moving gray whales. The grays were followed by a fantastic pod of Risso’s dolphins. We had a bunch of hearing impaired folks out with us and they proved one doesn’t have to hear the blow of a whale to experience the thrill of it. Their joy radiated throughout Princess of Whales. As passengers disembarked at the dock, many of them hugged us. How could Sunday’s cruise possibly top this?

For starters, we had Harriett Thorpe aboard celebrating her 80th birthday. Females’ birthdays often bring big time magic on our cruises. It arrived with a radio call from Moss Landing Harbor dock mate, Sheherezade. We hadn’t met Ed and Brooke yet, but we were five minutes out of the harbor when they called to let us know they had killer whales by their boat and they were just ahead of us!

So we sauntered over and spent the next two hours in a time warp. Orcas to the left of us, orcas to the right of us… Ed radioed Steph to make sure he wasn’t encroaching on the whales, which was very thoughtful. He echoed our method of staying to one side or the other of the whales, keeping a respectful distance and giving them room to move. Then a smaller boat raced up at the whales, cut ahead of them and placed itself in their path. The people on the small boat got some fantastic looks, but at the whales’ expense. Steph tried to call them on the VHF radio, but there was no answer.

For a second, then third time, the small boat raced toward the orcas at high speed, then cut them off. All I ever think of when I see this behavior is how awful it must be for the whales. From the reactions of our passengers, I wasn’t alone. They captured the pursuit with their video cameras. Livid, I joined Steph on the bridge. He placed Princess of Whales in front of the small boat. We firmly told them their actions had been documented on video and to stop harassing the whales. We left the orcas to their journey as soon as the smaller boat had departed.

Just as I was easing away from the orcas, Steph and I spotted a large patch of rough water. DOLPHINS! A thousand or more common dolphins were the perfect frosting on Harriett’s birthday cake. But there was one more positive note when we received a call from the same small boater as we passed each other in the harbor. It started hot, but calmed when he was helped to understand what he’d done wrong and vowed to be better next time. It’s all a journey, for us and the whales.

Remember the fundraising cruises we ran recently for Bay Net and UCSC's Long Marine Labs? We can do the same thing for your group, company or school! You choose your date and we note it in our reservations book. You promote the cruise to friends, family, co-workers, club members and so on (this is easily done by sharing our web site address). When people make reservations, we ask if they are part of your group. We compile a list of people who sign up under your group and charge them the regular rate. But after the cruise, we donate a significant portion of those ticket sales back to you in a check, along with the list of attendees.

It's a great thing for all of us. Your group has a special outing. Your organization makes money (it can be several hundred dollars!). Sanctuary Cruises is promoted to new people. We all win. With the arrival of the humpback whales in the spring just weeks away, this is an excellent time to plan your cruise. Call us for details: 831.643.0128.

Our new Internet Special is "Pay for 4 and Bring 1 More (Free!)." With each reservation for five or more, the least expensive ticket is free. Be sure to ask for the special at the time you make your reservation.

Remember last week's update about our dogs Fluke & Rumba? It created quite a stir. The version printed in the Salinas Californian was also posted on their web site. A woman in Maryland thought it was great so she added it to her Golden web site along with more photos of the girls (landofpuregold.com/travel.htm). Then the girls' Aunt Kitty saw it. Kitty works for Cascade Designs, the great company in Seattle that manufactures Therm-a-Rest sleeping pads and those ingenius PackTowls, two items no prudent camper can live without.

Well, they have also added an unbelievable dog bed to their line called Camp K-9. It has a Therm-a-Rest pad inside, soft paw print fleece on the side the dog sleeps on and an indestructible fabric on the bottom so rocks and sharp twigs can't damage it. They can be compressed and rolled up, then secured with their buckling straps. They make a terrific camp bed for dogs, are perfect in the house and add great comfort to travel when used in the car. And finally, the cover is removable and washable. If we sound like converts, we are. Fluke and Rumba both got a Camp K-9 from Aunt Kitty and they are convinced these beds are the best thing to come along, especially for old dogs, since Charlee Bear dog cookies. Well, maybe they rank just below Charlee Bears, but they are wonderful. Available in 3 sizes, check them out at: www.campk9usa.com where you can sign up for email "pup-dates."

See you out there.

2/26/03: Dolphins Dancing On My Bow
Words can hold a great deal of power and sometimes, when properly arranged, can give us a glimpse into the future. Back in the 80's, I owned a store in Princeton-by-the-Sea. We had excellent coffee and developed quite a faithful following which sprawled in the Beach Garden out back, reading newspapers and catching up on the gossip. (Being very close to Pillar Point Harbor, gossip was always in good supply.)

Lynn English was one of my customers and one day he brought in a poem he'd written. It was called, I believe, "Dolphins Dancing On My Bow." It had me from the first line because I was captivated by the idea of sailing along on the ocean, surrounded by dolphins that seemed to dance on the surface. Soon after, I sold the store and ran away to sea, working my way up in the maritime industry when most people my age were settling comfortably into middle age.

Almost 20 years later, I drive boats and engage others in this dance with marine mammals on the sea. It's my reward for the time spent working on taxes or paying bills, my time to be completely in the moment and not to think of anything else. I got this picture of a woman in a similar state in January on one of the many, incredible times we've been out there with common dolphins this winter. Last week, we saw them several times, including on Sunday after Risso's dolphins and before three very cooperative gray whales, making for a grand cruise.

The animals seem to exude joy and our spirits rise with their leaps and pirouettes. What could be more rewarding than to deposit our passengers back at the dock and repeatedly hear from them, "We want to go again!" or "We'll be back in April for the humpbacks!" All from a voyage on the Pacific that for many, couldn't really be appreciated until they'd done it. I guess not everyone has an old poem that lingers in their minds, hinting at the future and helping guide their choices to get them there.

Or maybe they do. Perhaps for those of you who read these updates, but haven't been surrounded by dolphins or had a whale surface close enough to the boat to be covered in whale spray, the words are imprinting deep within you. Someday, you'll share the experience I first had years ago and it will be a mysterious combination of old and new. I remember so clearly thinking, "I feel like I've been here before."

If you come out with us soon, you will probably see northbound gray whales and you might be lucky enough to get a peek at some mating. Common dolphins in the hundreds and even thousands have been seen a lot recently, as have Risso's dolphins. Plus, we're about due for another visit by the killer whales, which are the wild cards, showing up without warning and leaving the same way. Bring your dancing shoes.

Cruises are Wednesday-Sundays at 10:30 and they cost $37.50 for adults and $27.50 for kids 12 and under. Under 2 is free. Our Season's Pass costs $300.00 and is good for 10 whale watching cruises. You can pass it around, use it over years or all in one day. It's a great discount.

We are working with our relief skipper Scott to work out a modified schedule for whale watching cruises while Steph and I take a little vacation mid-March. Scott will work with our deckhand Noel and the pair has won rave reviews from passengers. One family sent us a thank-you card after their cruise, saying Scott and Noel were great, enthusiastic and friendly, making their son's 9th birthday perfect.Talk about music to an emplyer's ears! I guess Steph and I aren't nearly as indispensible around here as we might have thought we were.

Speaking of birthdays, if you're shopping for one, the link shown here takes you to our web site's Store. On it, you can purchase cool clothing and caps, jewelry, books and more. For each Store order received, we'll include a free whale's tail which is the same as the tails I use for our handmade necklaces. You can use it as a zipper pull, make your own necklace or put it on your key chain. Place 2 separate orders and you'll get a pair of tails: earrings! See you out there.

2/18/03: Queens of the Pacific
“I only have one question,” the caller said. It was gray whale season, as it is now. We were seeing a bunch of grays, plus Risso's dolphins and common dolphins, same as we're experiencing this February. “You want to know if you’re really going to see gray whales and dolphins on your cruise with us,” I replied. “No,” she said, “will Fluke be on board?”

That was back when we just had one dog, Fluke. Her full name is Doxie’s Amazing Grace Fluke because she appeared 10 hours after we had tearfully put down our 17 year old Chesapeake Bay retriever, Doxie. We were a wreck and couldn’t have considered another dog yet. But there was the pathetic golden retriever on the side of the road. Dirty, matted and skittish, it was clear she’d been abused and dumped, but she won the dog lottery when Steph scooped her up.

Fluke’s vet estimated her age at about 8 back then. She took to the boat immediately and was comfortable in any seas and although she enjoyed the attention lavished on her by passengers, she showed no interest in whales or dolphins.

A year or so ago, I suggested we get a companion for Fluke. Steph scoured the SPCA, but the candidates he liked weren’t good with cats and we have three. We got Chigger as a feral kitten when she wandered onto Highway One at the grand age of 30 days old. Possum moved in after being dumped in Moss Landing, where our dock mate Vicki ministers to abandoned cats and had decided we needed another one. We found Tater on the Arroyo Seco River. Most likely dumped as well (what is wrong with people who do this!?), he now bears no resemblance to what he was then, a weak little bag of bones near death. No question about it, a dog in our house has to do well with cats.

I had hoped for a younger and smaller dog, one that didn’t shed as much as Fluke. This explains why we adopted Rumba from NorCal Golden Retriever Rescue (www.golden-rescue.org). She was just under the size of a full-grown grizzly, 15 pounds overweight, 10 years old and in heat. But she adored Steph from the beginning and soon was trim, spayed and shipping out with us.

It’s not uncommon to be with whales as we were yesterday and to have a few kids curled up on the dog beds with the girls. Fluke and Rumba were dispensing sloppy dog kisses. Their motto for kids may well be, "You pick 'em, we lick 'em!" But when we discovered a thousand common dolphins as we were heading in, Steph took Rumba to the bow because she loves dolphins. As they jumped and raced ahead of our boat, Rumba watched, transfixed. She talked to them, softly murmuring, “Rowr-rowr-rowr.” We call it her dolphin narration. The passengers got as much of a kick out of her as they did the whales and dolphins, which is saying something.

The weather has been as spectacularly good here as it has been bad elsewhere. We haven't had to cancel a trip due to weather more than twice in months and the whales and dolphins have been tremendous. We run Wednesday-Sunday at 10:30 and the forecast remains bright, including the one for next weekend. Any rain predicted is light and at night, making for those sweet, springlike mornings. If you'd like to join us for a cruise, call 831.643.0128 or 831.917.1042.

See you out there.

2/10/03: Orcas, AT&T, Breaching Grays & Echo Valley Elementary
For two years in a row, we’ve taken the kids of Echo Valley Elementary School whale watching. We love showing them the wonders of nature and last year, we saw a huge pod of dolphins. The kids had a great time, were well-behaved and left our boat almost as clean as they found her. This year, we had terrific gray whales AND a boisterous pod of common dolphins, so the kids got everything we could have hoped for. Again, they left Princess of Whales ship shape, which is saying something for over 120 kids. So far, they have topped all schools in having fun and following rules, something I struggle with on a daily basis!

Last weekend brought us astounding weather and whales. Saturday dawned clear and cold, but soon warmed into the 60’s and we had flat seas. We began the trip with about 40 Risso’s dolphins, those large, blunt-headed animals with the tall dorsal fins. Then we moved farther out into the range where we would expect to see the gray whales crossing the Monterey Bay, but instead we ran across two large male killer whales! We cruised along with the orcas for close to an hour, certain we wouldn’t see grays as they make themselves scarce when the bad boys are in town. But then I spotted several blows to the southwest, so we headed that way and spent quite a while with the grays before heading back to Moss Landing.

On Sunday, we had the same weather and began the trip with two very cooperative gray whales just a few miles outside of the harbor. This has been quite a winter for grays in the inner bay. We're not sure what's up, but we've seen far more gray whales close to Moss Landing. Then we moved out past Point Pinos where another surprise awaited us. Just as we neared a pair of grays, one breached six times in a row! For whales that rarely breach, it was something to see. Professional motorcycle race photographer, Gary Rather, joined us for the cruise with a camera and lens the size of my car. It was his first whale watch and he captured a lifetime’s worth of gray whale breach shots in about a minute and a half. Not bad, huh? This is his shot here.

Gray whales were everywhere, so we zigged and zagged to check them out as we made our way to Carmel Bay for our annual visit to the AT&T Pro-Am Golf Tournament “from the other side.” It was lovely. On glassy waters, passengers sunbathed, sipped coffee and Bloody Marys, watched whales and peered through binoculars at the crowds on the greens. To think this was a day in February, when much of the country is blanketed in snow and ice. Winter, Central California Style.

This coming week, we are conducting a wedding cruise on Monterey Bay on Valentine's Day, so no whale watching that day. The wedding will be for Amanda Hay, whose fiance's last name is Hunter. If this sounds more horsey than fishy to you, consider this: Amanda runs a stable and specializes in training, you guessed it, hunters.

We will run our 4-5 hour whale watching cruises Saturday, Sunday and Monday, which is Presidents' Day. Cruises depart Moss Landing Harbor at 10:30. They cost $37.50 for adults, $27.50 for kids 12 and under and under 2 is free.

See you out there.

2/4/03: The Bus Drivers and the Gray Whales
Ever hear the term “busman’s holiday”? It refers to a person taking a vacation from driving bus who takes a bus trip. Maybe it sounds like that person is terribly narrow and can’t think beyond what he or she does for a living, but consider the possibilities. The busman can compare notes with the other drivers. See what distant roads are like without navigating them... Expand horizons while in the familiar context of what he or she does on a regular basis.

Last spring, Steph and I took our first vacation since starting Sanctuary Cruises. It was a wonderful week spent visiting his mom in Southern California and were we lucky in our timing. She died suddenly and unexpectedly just a week later. Losing both our moms the last few years and working ridiculously long and stressful hours has convinced us that it can’t all be about work. There has to be time to slow down and regenerate.

In our fourth year of business and having survived our drydock experience before Christmas, “richer in spirit if poorer in the pocketbook,” as Steph put it, we have thought about another vacation. After the great January we just had and before the burst of spring charters and humpback whale watching cruises seems perfect and a good investment in our future. As a favorite passenger told us recently, “I worry that you two will burn out; we need you.” Then there was my birthday a few weeks ago. We give it short shrift every year because we are so busy in January. When asked what I’d like to do if we took some time off, I replied what I’ve said every year since 1996:

Go to San Ignacio Lagoon in Baja to see the gray whales.” A bus person’s holiday, yes. But for years we have fought for these whales, worked with them on the open ocean and yet never have we experienced them in the lagoons where they can come right up to the Mexican pangas and allow visitors to pet them, kiss them, rub them and even stroke their baleen. So what would it be like? Stay tuned, we’ll tell you toward the end of March.

It isn’t just about whales. We have wanted to meet some of the others who are featured in Eye of the Whale, Dick Russell’s epic gray whale book, so we’re going to drop in on Baja Adventures in San Ignacio and let them do the cooking, cleaning and boat driving. About as much as I hope to do is play with Fluke and Rumba on the beach and germinate new ideas under an old straw hat. Dick is trying to make it down at the same time and if he does, we might explore the possibility of taking some of you with us next year. Wouldn’t that be cool?

As for the Monterey Bay and the whales and dolphins recently, it has been a stellar time. Last week, we had Echo Valley School’s kids out with us and were treated to an enormous pod of dolphins just outside of the harbor. Then we had gray whales that took such a slow bell with us that the kids got numerous opportunities to see them and hear them. Oooh, the sound of a whale blow is magic, compounded exponentially by rambunctious kids who are so jazzed at being there, in the moment they may remember their whole lives.

For some reason, we are seeing more gray whales close to Moss Landing (most cross the bay farther out). On Sunday, one surfaced not far from the boat as we headed for the harbor and a lone, younger gray has been seen there on several occasions the past few weeks.

AT&T Golf Tournament weekend is this week and the Monterey Peninsula is the place to be. The weather has been a delight, the sightings magnificent and if you haven’t been out yet to see the grays, what are you waiting for? Also, we have several new crewmembers we’d like you to meet. Passengers have raved over their friendliness, helpfulness and enthusiasm, so I know we have some winners. Come on out with us and meet them!

Trips are at 10:30. They cost $37.50 for adults and $27.50 for anyone under 13, with under 2 going free.

1/21/03: The Magic of Gray Whales & All Kinds of People
There is no way I can do justice to the past week. This is the peak time for southbound migrating gray whales, plus we have seen lots of common dolphins. On Friday, we hosted the David and Lucille Packard Foundation employees aboard Princess of Whales. It was a beautiful day and very nice cruise.

On Saturday, throw in gray whales mating and breaching as Risso’s dolphins escorted them on a blue silk bay, all of this witnessed by over 130 passengers, including two shifts of volunteers from the Monterey Bay Aquarium and the San Jose Harley Davidson chapter. I would hazard the guess that it's about as common to see southbound gray whales lounging around mating as it is to see the combination of aquarium volunteers and Harley riders not only peacefully coexisting, but genuinely enjoying the shared experience.

Add Lorraine Lowe, a reader of my Salinas Californian column who finally was prompted to go whale watching for her first time last Sunday. Toss in Elizabeth O’Boyle, a San Francisco nurse who for two years running has brought her young leukemia patient down here to watch whales with us. Then there is Alan Ediger who had reservations for 4 adults and five kids Sunday, but mistakenly went to Monterey. As most of you know and Alan certainly knows now, we’re based in Moss Landing. His party rolled over to Monday’s cruise, which was very fortunate. More magic was in the making.

A beloved former neighbor of ours, Jane Lord, managed to choose this day to bring her kids out with us. Katie Freeman and her husband Larry Pageler had convinced a small flotilla of friends to join their family whale watching. We also had Chris Wilkerson from Utah. This is her second year of driving out with her developmentally disabled daughter Mary to whale watch with us. Mary LOVES whales and dolphins. Chris and Mary brought two friends, Stephanie and Kay, also disabled.

Steve Peck is principal of Santa Rita Middle School in San Jose and he’s joined us many times for cruises. He‘s got a sharp eye for marine life, a kind demeanor and is always a welcome addition to our boats. He's been trying to coordinate a day when he could bring his teachers out and yesterday was it. He also brought a grand surprise that was unveiled on our way in from a dizzying display of dolphins and exuberant grays.

Everyone exulted over the zipping dolphins and charging whales. Mary grasped the concept, if not nuance, of calling out sightings by the hands of the clock. Just as all whales are “Willy” for Mary, all sightings for her were, “Four o’clock!” Kay beamed and told me, “I could live on this ship. You’re so lucky!” And Stephanie, in a very matter of fact way, announced, “I like the boat and I like whales.”

As Princess of Whales transported us home, Steve’s surprise, Bob Reid, joined the crowd on the bridge. Bob performs in schools and at all sorts of events; check out his wonderful web site: www.bobreidmusic.com.

First, he sang a beautiful whale song a capella. Then, as his hands warmed up, he took out his guitar and sang many songs from his CD’s, beginning with, “There’s a Light in You.” The kids--including Jed Pageler, seen here with Bob--swarmed around him, captivated. They sang along as they learned the words, but Kay knew them somehow. Loud and strong, she sang with Bob:

There's a light in me, there's a light in you
Whatever language you speak
Whatever your point of view
Whatever people may say
Whatever people may do
There's a light in you
You must let your light shine through

See what I mean? There is no way I can do the week justice. It’s a chapter for my book.

The next couple of weeks will remain very good for big numbers of gray whales although we will see them well into May. If you haven't been winter whale watching before, this is your chance. Cruises are Wednesday-Sunday at 10:30 and reservations are essential. On Sunday, we will have Bay Net supporters out with us and their one of a kind leader, Milos Radakovich will be on board. It's been said I have all the enthusiasm of an entire third grade. Milos has that plus all the knowledge of an entire room full of biologists. If you'd like to support Bay Net, please let us know when you make reservations. Bay Net tickets are $50 each with a generous portion going to the organization. Regular rates are $37.50 for adults and $27.50 for kids 12 and under. Under 2 is free. You may add a donation for Bay Net in any amount by letting us know when you make reservations.

Can't schedule a cruise right now? Go to our Store to outfit yourself for future adventures: www.sanctuarycruises.com/store.html. Our handsome embroidered Sanctuary Cruises caps were the big sellers last week, along with signed copies of Dick Russell's monumental gray whale book, Eye of the Whale. Not available on the web site but for sale on the boats are cool Point Sur Lighthouse coffee cups with gray whales and blue whales on them. When you add hot liquid, the whales' skeletons appear! They are $10 each and a portion of sales help support the lighthouse.
If you received this update from a friend and would like to sign up to receive them yourself, go to www.sanctuarycruises.com/talk.html. See you out there!

1/7/03: The Gray Whale Migration is Rocking!
This is the story of gray whales, dolphins and four women who took kids out whale watching with us last week. Each is unique. Ruth Cook recently moved to Watsonville and had never been whale watching, nor had her kids, Janet and Timmy. Robin Valentine is a faithful reader of my Salinas Californian column and the kind of woman who hits a bulls eye often in choosing adventures for her grandkids, Clarice and Robby. Knowing Clarice wants to be a marine biologist, Robin decided to take the kids whale watching. Ellyse Burke volunteers at the Steinbeck Center; she brought her kids and grandkids, Alec and Clark. Then there was Ruth Vreeland.

Gee, where do I start with Ruth? She’s a Monterey City Councilperson, as bubbly as an entire case of champagne and from the minute we met, we clicked. We share unlimited enthusiasm for the ocean and its creatures and the Monterey Peninsula. But it wasn’t until last week that Ruth managed to get her kids and grandkids out with us on a cruise.

January is the peak month for southbound gray whales and a prime time for common dolphins in the hundreds and even thousands. So it’s no wonder we're having spectacular whale cruises. On several of them, we found the dolphins fairly close to Moss Landing, making for a wild start or end to the day. No matter how often we experience it, the magic and joy of cavorting dolphins is dazzling. Squeals of delight filled the boat as dolphins raced along our bows, some jumping six feet out of the air.

The whales thundered along, sometimes surfacing near us (we keep a respectful distance and never chase down whales; it’s their choice to come closer). On one of the cruises, four grays surfaced off our port side and stayed there through several surfacings. Clarice, Robby, Janet and Timmy stood at the rail, enchanted. They were able to be part of a mysterious, wondrous world and it soaked in through every pore.

The day Ellyse and her family joined us, a fair swell was running. It took the boys a bit of time to get their sea legs, but not Ellyse. She smiled constantly, often standing off by herself. As I’d pass by, she’d murmur, “I could do this forever!” Alec took a turn at the wheel and based on his smile, I suspect he would join his grandmother.

The Vreeland’s chose the day with the largest swell, but it didn’t matter. All did great. They were awed by the whales, in love with the ride and when Steph found 2,000 common dolphins on the way back to Moss Landing, they were elated. Here is the marvelous stream of consciousness email that Ruth sent afterward:

My family was ecstatic…kids are wearing their shirts and planning what to write in their journals…Colette said that she will have to write about 80 pages…Jake is already planning to tell his teacher (a swell guy) all the ins and outs of whale watching…Steph was great…my college grads were impressed… educational…fun…family togetherness…the dolphins were Grace‘s joy!” Grace is 21 months old and they almost didn't take her, but I assured them she would get a lot from the trip. Ruth says she even tried to tell her dad all about the boat, which must have been pretty interesting from such a young kid's perspective and limited vocabulary. Ruth ended with something we hear a lot and never tire of:

Thanks for the memories.” You too, ladies. You, too.

Now for our company news! We have two new deckhands and they have stolen the hearts of our passengers already. Reggie is a pro photographer and a lover of the sea. He took this shot of the common dolphins seen yesterday on a special trip with four women who chartered the boat because they could only go Monday. Noel is a local guy, hails from nearby Castroville, and although working on a boat is new to him, he's a natural for it. Both have impressed us because they're so friendly and helpful.

We have several extraordinary cruises coming up. Saturday, January 11th, Dr. Don Croll of UCSC will join us for a special event benefitting Seymour Discovery Center. We're excited because he is one of the major scientists studying whales on the central coast and although his work has been featured on Steph's radio program "Life on the Bay," we haven't met. Rates for this cruise are $35 adults/$25 kids for Seymour members and $40/$30 for non-members. We are donating a nice portion of each ticket sale to Seymour.

On Sunday, January 12th, we have a great group of California State Park employees joining us. Our state parks are fantastic and we are thrilled to be taking these folks out to see the whales. Friday, 1/17, employees from the Packard Foundation will be on board. Few foundations do as much good as this one. Saturday, 1/18, two shifts of the volunteers at the Monterey Bay Aquarium will be on Princess of Whales with us. Rarely will you find so many enthusiastic folks who know as much about marine life in one place, but it will happen again Sunday, January 26th when we present a fundraising cruise for Bay Net. They are the volunteers trained by Milos Radakovich who are found all along the shoreline, engaging visitors and explaining what they're seeing. More on this cruise next update.

Cruises are Wednesday through Sunday at 10:30. Winter cruises are 4-5 hours long and often result in us seeing gray whales, dolphins and even killer whales. Rates are $37.50 for adults and $27.50 for kids 12 and under. Under 2 is free. See you out there!

12/24/02: Home on the Northwest Swell
Our second week at Bay Ship in Alameda brought a few surprises. We were sure the bill for the work we had done couldn’t possibly top the estimates we’d received, but we were mistaken. Badly mistaken. One of the jobs we’d had to wait on until Princess of Whales was out of the water was to replace her underwater viewing ports with aluminum. Even when we had whales right where the viewing ports were located, no one wanted to go inside and look through them because it was too exciting to see the whales from the decks. They were a hassle to keep clean, so we decided to take them out. Just our luck, the aluminum we needed was nowhere to be found nearby. Based on the bill, we suspect it was made down on the gulf just for us and flown up here First Class… on a private jet.

But there were good surprises, too. Throughout the torrential rain and slashing winds, we had 3 different crews working on our boat. Those guys treated Princess as though she was theirs and put their hearts into their work. She’s a better boat for their diligent efforts. Swing shift seemed to get the worst of the wind and rain (except when we were either driving in or pulling out of the drydock), so in sympathy for the weather they had to contend with, I made chocolate chip cookies and delivered them along with a pump pot of coffee, or I'd drop off coffee and candy bars. Anything to let them know how much we appreciated them.

Last Friday, the dock master who wanted to hire us invited us to the company barbecue. Then our project manager invited us. How could we say no? By this time, we were out of drydock and waiting out rough seas on the ocean. Held in a wide open but roofed shed, the Christmas BBQ featured tables filled with freshly grilled chicken, ribs and steak complete with all the trimmings. Just like the crews, we arrived wet, dirty and hungry. We dropped our hard hats by our feet, perched on folding chairs and ate from paper plates in our laps as the rain blew in. I kept thinking how different this bunch was--friendly, helpful and dedicated--and wondered what they thought of us. Most companies have a crew deliver their ship, tug or barge and it’s picked up when the job is complete. The company owners (and captains), their two dogs and three cats coming for the duration is not common, but you’d never have known it from their demeanor.

The Christmas season had just about come and gone and all we had to show for it was an accumulation of bruises, cuts and dings and a craving for a hot bath that seemed to grow by the minute. We just wanted to be home. I’d driven the cats down two days before to save them from what seemed to be a pretty rough ride south.

There’s no place like home! There's no place like home!” I had told them as I drove, Chigger cuddled on my lap and occasionally biting me lazily, Tater sprawled on top of her, his little legs stretched out as though he was flying and Possum curled up in the wheel well, as usual.

While at the house, a storm hit that took out a nearby tree and the power line next to it. Big potted plants blew off the decks and whatever wasn’t tied down went on walkabout. I hated leaving the cats alone but we still had to bring Princess home. Our friend Kirsten volunteered to drive me back north so off we went amidst heavy rain and flooding, passing accident after accident.

On Saturday, the weather report wasn’t great. The day started with more pounding rain and the forecast said to expect it much of the day. We planned to work until noon then knock off and take the ferry to San Francisco; maybe see a movie. Then it began to clear. The sun came out. A call from Ernie at Pillar Point down the coast informed us that while their red channel buoy had been ripped in half by the recent storms (the top of it washing up on the beach miles away), the entrance was open. We could make Pillar Point that day, then as seas subsided Sunday, go to Moss Landing. Stopping short and staying over in Santa Cruz harbor wasn’t an option. The bar there had experienced the worst conditions in 30 years and was definitely closed.

So we made ready for sea, stowing gear and walking the dogs one last time. By mid-morning, I backed us away from the dock and headed for open water. The San Francisco Bay glistened, smooth and calm despite a good deal of floating debris. As Steph checked the engine rooms, I announced to vessel traffic control that we were outbound with the tide. Minutes later, I got a call from Encinal, the Oakland/Alameda ferry. Her captain wished us a good trip and a great season. As three ocean-bound tugs with oil barges convened at the Golden Gate, we fell in with them. It was an exciting run with all of us doing over 11 knots going out and a couple of huge car carriers inbound, reminding us that this world-famous entrance isn’t nearly as large as one might think it is.

I have been under this bridge on all sorts of boats but never as big, grand or fast as Princess. Nor beautiful. She looked great charging out the Gate as attested to by a fellow walking across the span who called us by cell phone (our number is on the boat) and Russ, our friend who runs the Blue and Gold ferries. He had driven up to the Marin headlands to see us off and he was genuinely thrilled to report we cut an especially dashing figure out there. Another captain called on the VHF and suggested we switch to a working frequency. He was running the Red & White tour boat behind us and would make a turn back into the bay after going under the bridge.

Is this Heidi?” he asked. I said it was. “I know a little bit about your operation,” he explained, “and I just wanted to say hi and wish you well.” Jeez Louise. Calls of “Merry Christmas and a safe trip!” reverberated from vessel to vessel, the vessel traffic operator to our vessels and back. Touched to the bone, Steph and I shook our heads in wonder. The big dogs on San Francisco Bay had welcomed us warmly and they sent us off for home the same way.

As with our northbound adventure, we dodged crab pots and their attendant buoys with the floating poly line that gives me nightmares because they can do a great job of fouling props. As we neared Pillar Point and turned for our approach, I was reminded that the entrance is flanked on both sides by reefs that break in bad weather. I don’t know about you, but it is counter-intuitive for me to drive a vessel toward breaking waves. Even so, we skinnied through the area between them and were soon tying up again in my old home port. There might be too many new developments, but the air is still rich with eucalyptus, wood smoke and the scent of saltwater creatures on the pilings under the pier. It is the smell of my childhood.

Next morning, we rose early and walked the dogs before sunrise. Family members were planning to visit later but we called and said we wanted to go home. They understood. Not long after first light, we were outbound. I called the harbor office.

Pillar Point Harbor Master, Princess of Whales.”

Princess of Whales, harbor master.”

Good morning,” I said, “We’ve cleared H dock and are outbound, headed for Moss Landing.”

Thanks, have a good trip!” he replied.

We will and Merry Christmas,” I said.

And a Happy New Year,” he said warmly.

The northwesterly swells slapped us on our starboard side as we put several miles between us and land, but once we turned to run down the coast, it wafted us along on a carpet of diamonds even though the swells were still large and would have been an entirely different story had we been northbound. Gray whales and common dolphins escorted us south. By the time we got to Moss Landing, the rough seas were behind us. Dempsey and Mike were there to catch lines. Other neighbors came by to welcome us home, including our land neighbors. We were home, safe and the bath tub beckoned. We made a hasty retreat and were at the house within an hour.

Last night, we read Christmas letters from friends who spoke of making the world a better place, holding special spots in their hearts for us as we do for them. We took stock. Challenges don’t stop us but they take their toll. It was a grand adventure taking Princess north for her first drydocking, but one we would have loved to have been shorter, cheaper and easier. And yet we made some fine connections and we all did a grand job. We’ll enjoy our time at home with our funny little family, cooking and playing the Christmas music we began in earnest before Halloween. We celebrate the friends old and new that we have and are amazed, all things considered, that the bar on Princess of Whales has a drop of alcohol left in it.

Our very best to every one of you. Heidi, Steph, Fluke, Rumba, Chigger, Possum & Tater

PS: This shot shows you our second stable mate in drydock. We had an 87’ Coast Guard cutter ahead of us and a 105’ barge astern of us. The dredge I mentioned in the first drydock update is working just beyond the drydock. My old tug Western Sun/Sharon Brix wasn’t around when we took the shot but we saw her frequently during our stay. And today, as we decorated our beautiful but admittedly straggly pine tree cut from our property, I showed the brass ornament I made in Oregon to Steph. He had seen it before, but now it had a special meaning. It’s the outboard profile of Western Sun. This is an interesting life.