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Respect for Sea Life, Conservation-based, Non-Smoking Vessels.
Winner of multiple Monterey Chamber of Commerce awards.
Great Naturalists Who Open the World of the Sea for You

Want to go whale watching
with Sanctuary Cruises?
Hang on!
The company is for sale and we hope to have it running again soon.
This is a great opportunity for the right people:
If you're nature-oriented, spirited, hard-working,
want to make a difference and earn a good living, read on.

If you'd like to receive our newsletter with updates on Sanctuary Cruises, type your email into the box below and we'll keep you posted on our progress.

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6/25/2009 Update: This month, we put out two newsletters to our email newsletter list from before we sold Sanctuary Cruises in May of 2007. The response was astounding. A lot of those people get what we're about. They understand we are good businesspeople and they also understand that there is more to it with our businesses. It's about heart and passion.

Check out these responses. The rest of the story is below. I'd create a new page, but we've got a full plate of jobs right now.

Sanctuary Cruises will be back. Stay tuned. Take care, Heidi & Steph

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We really appreciate what you created in Sanctuary Cruises. From the passengers' point of view it was always a great experience. That The boat was always clean and neat. Most of the time the deck hands were friendly. All of the times we were out we saw whales. Sometimes more than others. We have seen humpbacks, grays, orcas, hundreds of dolphins, sun fish, otters, birds of every description, seals, jelly fish, sharks, feeding frenzies, Delta & Dawn. Every trip was a new adventure.

My mom is 83. She had open heart surgery last August and one of the incentives for her to get up and moving was to go out whale watching. She was on a cruise to see the whales in 5 weeks. We thank you for that.

We will take the positives away from our encounters with Sanctuary Cruises.
-We loved our trips.
-We learned a lot.
-We love being on the ocean.
-There is always more to learn.
-We meet a lot of wonderful people.
-Our mom found a passion for the sea.
-And we found a new place we are interesting in visiting: The Trinity River

Sharan Kemp

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Heidi,

I am sad to see that the business is on hold for now… I've taken at least 5 cruises with you guys, some solo and subjecting every visiting friend and relative to the experience.

Best of luck in finding a buyer - you've become a summer activity staple!

In the meantime, do you have any shirts left for sale? I'd love to pick up a few for myself and for friends that have loved their experience with you guys in the past… Maybe drum up a little more interest in the company?

Let me know. Best, Alison Elafros

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What is the latest on the operation of Sanctuary Cruises? I’ve gone whale watching with you guys several times and always had a wonderful time. Do you think you will be running cruises this summer? – let’s hope so!! Sincerely, Sheldon Nelson

As I read this I realized why I enjoyed going out with you all those times. You and Steph are just good people. You have pride in your work, and without that nothing else matters. It's always the first thing I look for when I'm hiring staff. I can teach the skills needed, but if you don't have pride, I'm not interested.

If you get back on the water, I want to be on the boat with you! I'll take vacation, or even time off without pay to ride with you folks again. And I don't know if I'll get any trips with the Monterey boats that will get me near Moss Landing to see if Big Fin is back with a calf this year. I tell her story a lot around here when I'm training volunteers.

Best to you both, Steve Johnston/Senior Interpretor Monterey Bay Aquarium

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The Sanctuary Cruises newsletters had stopped and I had no idea what was going on. I feel so bad for you both – the way the buyer treated you. That’s awful, but your spirit comes through in spades again in this newsletter. It is very inspirational – You both have been through a lot over the years and yet to have a positive attitude, fix up Sanctuary and go back at it, even through a traumatic financial mess – Congratulations and thank you for sharing it with the mailing list!

I have to admit, your for sale info got me thinking. My wife and I aren’t the right buyers for your business, but you are making a very generous offer to the buyer with the mentoring, participation, sharing relationships with the Monterey Bay local merchants/captains, etc. Bravo!

I’ll definitely be patronizing the business when it is up and running with the new buyer!

Best regards,Ted Lohman/Mountain View, CA

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GREAT to hear from you guys again, and best of luck with the sale. I am no longer living in California, but hope the operation is up and running again in time for my next visit!

Sujatha

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Heidi,

As an old retired guy I can't offer a buyer but can offer some work on the boat and a place to stay if needed (Shorebirds - Pajaro Dunes) for you and Steph.

We have been out with you guys many times with kids and grandkids and would love a reunion cruise. Dave and Sandy DeBoer

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Hello Capitan Heidi,

What a surprise! Even though I do not still live anywhere near Moss Landing or for that matter California, I always looked forward to the Sanctuary Cruises Newsletter and then all of a sudden, it stopped!

My little sister and I will never forget the cruise that we took our mother on Mother's Day 2003 or 2004 (I'd have to look at my pictures). I now live in East Texas and will probably never be back to California again. My screen saver on my laptop is a slideshow of pictures from the time I lived in Salinas and the majority of the pictures are of the cruise we took that Mother's Day.

Good luck on finding a new owner and may the good Lord watch over you and Steph, your adventure with the Trinity River Adventure Inn and the Sanctuary Cruises.

God Bless You, Hal Warren

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Dear Heidi and Steph,

This is Lisa Borok (formerly at Seymour Center, now at Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute).

I got your newsletter and have passed it around at MBARI (hey we're facing lay-offs, so who knows...) and to Patrick Wilkinson (who maintains a great email list of marine-related folks). So sorry to hear how the buyer drove things aground, but it's wonderful to know you are back in the mix and making things right.

I'll keep you all in my thoughts for the RIGHT buyer for the biz to come along! Someday I must get up to the Trinity River and say hey. Very Best, Lisa

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Dear Heidi,

I can't tell you how happy I was to see you back in my Inbox. As I was reading your email I have to say I got a little misty. I didn't even realize how much I've missed reading about your cruises and your Adventure Inn. You're a wonderful writer. I really used to love getting your emails. I sincerely hope you're able to find a worthy new buyer, but I'm a little bit bummed that you and Steph won't be running the business again. Selfish of me, I know. :o)

I wish you both the best of luck in all your endeavors. Please keep me in your email list. I'd love to hear about all that is going on with both businesses. Sincerely,

Michelle Malpass

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Good luck with all. I really hated to see Sanctuary go to others as Sanctuary is the two of you. May the next owner be in the same aura/karma. Love and good luck to you both,

Nancy Fountain

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Dear Heidi,

I have no idea how you do all you do with the time you have. I know a little about your life style because my husband was a fishing charter boat captain on the Gulf of Mexico for over 50 years. After we moved out here to live with our son's family we went out on the Sanctuary about 7 times over a period of 3 years. My husband died last Nov. 12 and so we had not been for a while, then just last spring I learned my sister from Pennsylvania was coming to visit and a group of 5 of us got together a party to go whale watching.

I happily went to the website to get the tickets and what a shock. No way to get tickets on Sanctuary Cruises. We were devastated and had to go on another boat from Monterey but did not have the kind of trip I always expected on Sanctuary. I loved all of you guys and the way you handled everything. I hope you find a buyer who will handle it all the way you did. Judging from this last trip, I have been ruined for any other boat. Good luck.

EDNA WINDES

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I was THRILLED to see the e mail from Sanctuary Cruises since we had such a wonderful time on our trip with Sanctuary Cruises. I had been looking forward to taking another trip with Sanctuary when I discovered they were basically out of business a few months ago. I was happy to see your email then sad to see the business is for sale again. I hope you find a buyer that will honor your vision of sharing the ocean's treasures with everyone. I know that my husband and I will happily make the journey from Sacramento to Monterey to experience the thrill of whale watching on Sanctuary Cruises. We were lucky enough to see Orcas during our cruise; a thrill that I will never forget. Thanks so much! Sincerely,

Shelley Boone

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I just read the email sent to every one one the mailing list for Sanctuary Whale Watching.
I found Sancturary a little over year ago and was so excited! A small boat that went whale watching. Large groups are not good for me, but I wanted to go whale watching so bad. I payed for mom and I to go and I was hooked. Through out the next year I was able to go a few more times and each time my mom and I had such a great time, and the Captain seemed to go all out and the groups were always so pleasing.

I went to Kentucky for 6 months but I kept checking the Captain's journal on the web site to keep updated with what they were saying. I was disapointed when I read they were not going to have any more cruises, but since it said it was for haul-out and they hoped to be running soon, I was hopeful things would be back up by the time I returned home. Since I got home I have been checking the website regularly to see if they are selling tickets yet.

I saw the website notice of the business ordeal just yesterday, and then read the email I received today....what a sad story! I hope you find a good buyer soon!!! Because with only the few trips my mom and I went out on, your boat is the one I really like! I am itching to get back out and go whale watching on your boat again, so I hope things happen quickly for you guys. It is a shame that such a wonderful business was treated so badly but truly amazing you are so loyal to save it like this.

The best of wishes, and I hope that when the boat is able to go out again, I'll be able to meat the wonderful caretakers of the vessel on one of my next trips. I'll be waiting for Sanctuary to have cruises again! Kaelee Schoenneman

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Good to hear from you again!! I got so used to hear from you in the past and now we are sync again.!!!!

My name is Patricia and my husband and I are truly passionate whale lovers.

We even have a costume jewelry business on whales and dolphin designs (manufacture & wholesle/ necklaces and bracelets/ gold plated & silver plated).

We live in Mexico and we are planning to have your whale watching service this year. I really hope we can make it soon.

Our blessings to you Sanctuary Cruises owners and God bless too the whales, wherever they are. Patricia Bernal

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Good luck on finding the right people, it was sad to see Sanctuary just sitting there when we drove by. Hope you guys are doing well. All our best, Ed, Missy & Connie

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Heidi,

I am so glad to hear you have the boat back. As soon as you have a trip schedule, my husband and I will book a trip whether it is whale season or not, just to support your efforts. It is always a pleasure to take a trip on that boat!! Pat Caldera

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I don't know if you will actually get his email but thank you so much for the update! What is so weird is that yesterday I was thinking that it would be nice to go to Monterey and do a cruise- wow- miss you guys! We have been on, I think two of your cruises (sad it's not more) and hold such a high regard for what you do, or shall I shall I say did. It is sad to hear that your life's belief and caring was so disregarded. I got a couple of emails from the new owner but they soon stopped, I have to believe that there is someone out there who will take on Sanctuary Cruises and treat her right. Someone who will dedicate their life to the unknown animal life that resides in the Monterey Bay! Thank you both for all that you have done! Adios, Lynn

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Hi Heidi & Steph!

Great news. Well, not great about the hassle, but great for all of us fans that have been missing Sanctuary! We were all devastated! Quick question: Are you going to be running any trips while you are waiting for a buyer? We had to go out on a Monterey boat to see our whales. NOT the same. Let me know if you are planning any trips and I'll let all my gang at the crystal store know!

Thank you so much for creating, and now saving Sanctuary, one of the sweetest treasures of Monterey Bay! We LOVE YOU GUYS! Laura/Earthly Treasures

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Heidi,

Good to hear from you and hope you are well - thanks for the newsletter update. You may remember me, the white haired man from England with Auntie May in Stockton and wife Fiona.

If only I lived in California, I would be seriously interested in the business, your ideal buyer description is ME ME ME.

We are over in the fall and plan a trip whale watching as usual, are you planning to operate the vessel until a buyer is found ? Please pass on regards to Steph and the best of luck with the business. Regards, Eddie J. Hall

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So nice to hear from you, and so sad to hear what became of Sanctuary. While I’ve only been on one trip aboard her, it was a day I’ll never forget. Nice that you’ve been able to get her back in – forgive me for saying it – ship-shape.

Best of luck in finding a suitable buyer this time around. I wish I was it – but I haven’t the faintest idea how to drive a boat, and everything I know about whales I learned from Sanctuary Cruises.

Anyway, please keep me on whatever email lists you have; I always enjoy hearing from you.

Dave Strehle, Cincinnati, OH Sanctuary passenger, May 2005

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Wow, Heidi, what a story. I must say I experienced a little thrill seeing the email was from you. Glad you've got back into the situation. My family is traveling to CA in August this year and I was planning to send them to Sanctuary. I am hoping to get down there again myself. Been too many years. Maybe some time at Trinity would be in order too. Glad all is well with you and Steph. All good energy, truth and understanding of the Sanctuary for the new owner. It would be wonderful to have you as Capt. on occasion. Love and peace, Yvonne

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Heidi, Steph, and dogs:

I just received your newsletter on Sanctuary Cruises and I am glad that you got her back and running. It was a shame the seller did what he did to you guys. In the meantime, are you going to be taking her out for whale watching? I wish you luck in finding a reputable buyer. Me and mom had the best time on your boats watching whales. Jennifer Stokes (MT whale watcher)

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Dear Captains and Crew,

You do not know me, nor would you remember me. I lived in Monterey for one year 04-05. Turns out I am not a California girl and moved back to Ohio where I truly belong. One of my favorite memories is going out on your cruise and seeing dolphins so thick I could have walked on water.

I spoke about you guys often, and recommended your tours to others I found were heading out your way. It was an experience of a lifetime for me which I am very grateful. Your knowledge and professionalism was what impressed me the most, also those handy little pulse bracelets (ReliefBands) as I hold the world's record for chumming queen. Those things DO work!

Anyway, I just wanted to say how sorry I am that this numbskull put you guys through so much when you have brought so much joy to others. I am glad things are going better and wish you the best of luck. I will tell you that I wish I had the money, the know how, and the talent. What an incredible opportunity to have a business that brings you so close to the beauty and diversity of life. Who could ever call that work? Sincerely, Amy LaMontagne

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WOW!! What you've been through! My profound admiration goes out to you both. I too have missed Sanctuary Cruises, but look forward to some wonderful new owner(s). As I read your email, at first I thought you were going to take back the business and run it yourselves. But alas that is not so. Is it really impossible for you to continue to own Sanctuary Cruises and just have more help running it? Your wonderful spirits are so much a part of it and so much a part of it's appeal. Well, if that is not possible, I wish for you a magnificent new owner! Carole Johnson

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Hey Steph and Heidi...

Nice to hear from you again!! Now that the repairs have been made and you're seaworthy, will you two be doing any tours in the interim? I never received one email from the 'new guy.' Thanks again, Matt Tadevich

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I was just thinking of whale watching in Moss Landing recently and wondered what was going on w--at the most--newsletters. I'm glad that it's back in your hands again. My husband and I had a great time on our honeymoon almost 3 years ago and if we're up that way again I most definitely want to go back out again with your outfit since you guys are back at the helm of the business. I look forward to the newsletters again and reading about the different marine mammals, otters, etc. that you guys spot off of your coast.

I also hope you're able to get the people back that worked for you previously. They were very knowledgeable especially when someone got a little green around the gills on our trip to help this person with her seasickness, not to mention very friendly staff, too. I really enjoyed our captain for that day.

I'm super picky when it comes to whale watching trips, especially since I'm quite knowledgeable about marine mammals myself. Again it's great to have you guys back as owners of Sanctuary Cruises! I'm sure your customers will start coming back now that you're in charge again. Jeannette Ashlin

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I'll always treasure the outings with you folks and hope to see that level of professionalism again. HOW ARE THE DOGS??? Humanely Yours, Stephen Goode (& our crew)/Central California SPCA

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We haven't been to Monterey since you left, so I lost track of what was happening with Sanctuary. Moss Landing must have been in shock to see such a life-giving project fall apart. We recently created a Living Trust and I have listed Sanctuary as my choice for a wonderful Irish Wake. So you can see I was a little shaken when I think of what a nightmare that could have been! My dream wish would be for Steph and Heidi not to sell so that I know it would be one "killer" party (sorry, had to do that). But however it works out, I hope you know that we love you for your dedication to the most magnificent creatures on earth. Keep us in mind for a reunion cruise. God Bless, Larry & Pat Kelley

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Hi Heidi,

We are sick to hear about what happened to Sanctuary Cruises !! Unbelieveable! Bruce & I took a couple of trips but we didn't meet the buyer. His e-mails were pleasant though; this was not long after he came upon the scene. It's sad that things deteriorated so.

We wish you all the best with Trinity River Adventure Inn & with the sale of Sanctuary after all of your troubles & hard work. I hope someone purchases & loves it like one should ! Warm Regards, Judy & Bruce Yoakum

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Hi, Heidi & Steph,

Sooo glad to hear from you! A fgoldens resting peacefully on their blankets in the wheel house. Of course, we saw all sorts of creatures, but to me the best view was a giant gold-yellow sunfish just below the surface, floating on by.

What a mountain of all kinds of work to get your craft back, but that is history. Carry on kids. With an outstanding memory of that day and one more. Thank you. Best Regards to you two from we 2, Walt & Jane Freas/Sun City AZ.

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I look forward to "Special Whale Watching Expeditions." Your way of going out on the water is the best way to tag along and enjoy the experience--whales, dolphins or just ocean. Can't wait until something happens. Janie/Carmel Valley Lodge

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Hi Heidi and Steph

Geez, the loss of Sanctuary Cruises has not been good for town nor the Captain's Inn. I am hoping a new owner runs out of Moss Landing; I sure do get pounds of calls about "what happened to Sanctuary," so glad there is good news to share about resale and for the future. The buyer had a sweet deal; all he had to do was answer the phone himself.

Anyway, you can assure your buyer if they are in Moss Landing we will sure do our share to get passengers.

Glad you are liking the cabin and kayak business. Melanie Gideon/Captain's Inn

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Hi Heidi,

It's that docent from the Seymour Center. Great to hear from you! I'm taken aback from the news that Sanctuary Cruises is in trouble. I had no idea! Please tell me when I can start recommending Sanctuary Cruises again to visitors at the Seymour Center and at the Lighthouse who want to go out whale-watching. My best to Steph, Patrick

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Hi Steph and Heidi!

I wondered what happened to Sanctuary Cruises! I had wanted to book a trip for a friend and I but we never heard back...now I know why! It was great to hear from you. I would like to be added to your newsletter list for your Trinity River Adventure Inn. I have currently been promoted to Manager of the Animal Sanctuary where I work: www.pawsweb.org, so I will probably be needing a vacation soon! Ha! Anyway, great to see you guys are doing well. Sorry for all the mishaps with Sanctuary. I hope someone steps up. I would love to go on another Cruise on Sanctuary! Janice Clark

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Hi Heidi,

Thank you for letting all your fans know what happened to Sanctuary Cruises; what a shame to have had that happen. We had gone on a couple of trips with you and Steph and were on the trip the weekend after Mother's Day when a second orca attack happened. I was going to come for the taping that Tigress Productions was doing on the orca attacks. Unfortunately, we had just moved to Bakersfield. I had to change my plans because that happened to be the only time that several friends with trailers could help us move into our house. I was very disappointed, but was delighted to see the program on National Geographic. I think that it showed you as the dedicated and concerned naturalist that we saw on that trip. Congratulations.

I've been checking the SC website; because, I was hoping to go out on Sanctuary

last week, on the 10th. We took a trip last year on that date. After you left, we lost our grandaughter, Amanda, in an auto accident on June 10, 2007, exactly 6 months before her 16th birthday. We took family and friends out to scatter Amanda's ashes in the bay the following October. (Monterey and the Aquarium were her favorite places to go when she came to visit us.)

I wish you all the luck finding a new owner for the business that you cared for for such a long time. I hope that you Sincerely, Dee Thatcher

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Hi Heidi,

Was so excited to see the heading of your email, and then I read it. So sorry that the guy ended up being a nutcase. I took kids out in August of '07 and everything ran smoothly; guess that didn't last long.

I wish you could run both places, but since you can't, I now hope you get new owners up and going for the summer season! Yikes, that's almost here.

Your Trinity place sounds wonderful, and we must not be on your email list, so please add us, I'd love to come someday. Thanks again for the update and imagery of the river

Vicky

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SO sorry the guy was a flake. Hopefully you'll find a new buyer who's dedicated

to the whales, and to educating people to ensure their survival. Paul Watson [Sea Shepherd] can't do it all!

Looks like your new endeavor is thriving. Good luck. I hope someday our paths will cross again. Jan Gleason Bainbridge Island WA

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Thanks for the note. Since I did 6 yrs in the USN, I have many water-oriented friends; I will share this. One of my good friends lives in Washington State and finds jobs and stuff for those getting out of the USN – and that includes officers and qualified people that want a relaxing second career. I will have her give out your info to those interested. I know one guy that just wants to “Own my own boat and take people out fishing” – well, this would be darn close! He’s not 50 yet and was a boatswains’ mate before his desk job. He knows boats! Good luck! Mona/AZ

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Hey, folks,

I've been itching to get back out on the Bay the Sanctuary way, so somebody please let me know when there will be another cruise--even "a 3-hour tour." Tom Marshall

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WOW! What awesome news that you guys are getting it back! We only went once after you didn’t have it anymore and it just wasn’t the same and never went again! We’ll have to get back out there! Just wanted to say “welcome home”! Glad to hear everything is going so well for you guys! Keep in touch, Tammy Mallett

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Dear Steph and Heidi,

Wow it is so very wonderful to hear from you again!!!!! My husband and I are so excited. We were with you only for one trip, but it was the trip of a lifetime! We still recall it fondly after all of these years. Also, you told us how nice it was to see how in love the two of us were, and we still are.

Thank you so much for the gift of that wonderful day at sea. Thank you for making a difference. We don't have much to contribute monetarily but let us know if you are having any fund raisers to help out. Also, my husband is now an English professor, so if you ever need any help writing grants or something along those lines, we would do what we could to help. I would love for my daughter to take a cruise with us one day. Be well and know our thoughts and prayers are always with you. Donna & Keith

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What a cool follow up. I too was excited to see your message, and disappointed that the buyer did not keep Sanctuary up to its fantastic reputation. I was in Monterey back in February doing some job networking, and was sad when I called about a trip to hear a message saying it was "closed for the winter." My three trips out on your boats all bring happy memories. Thanks, Wendy

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Great Work on Sanctuary,

Michele and I, many friends and family, have been out with You many times, and had so much fun on that boat. Many great days, to date, three close encounters !!! Spectacular !!! Once in a lifetime experiences. We enjoy being out there, and our only option at present is with those guys from Monterey. I must say: It's not the same. Hopefully Sanctuary Cruises will live again soon.. we will come back in a flash. You have been sadly misssed. Regards,

Tony & Michele

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It's wonderful to hear from you again!! Brings back some great memories- what a treat it was to share those times working on Princess with Kira. I miss being out on the ocean, the marine life, and especially working with the two of you. Your attention to detail and quality were awesome! Thanks for the updates and I hope to see you sometime in the not to far future! Tamara (a great former deckhand along with her daughter Kira)

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Last month Dawn [another former deckhand!] and I joined friends on the deck of their La Selva beach condo for drinks before dinner. One must put great effort into politely making eye contact while actually scanning the water for telltail signs of large marine mammals.

We weren't even there five minutes when Dawn said, "Whale." There was a humpback out aways just throwing itself about. The show went on for a good twenty minutes and my heart was warmed by the sight. It was a comforting feeling. In another time I would know that the next day I would be heading for Sanctuary to tell you that there are happy whales over near

Soquel Hole. All of a sudden the void of no Sanctuary really hit hard. It is very nice to see your e-dress showing up as 'sanctuarycruises.' I wish there was a way I could be a part of a solution to this problem. Dawn and I had been out examining the Sanctuary's paint job the day before our humpback sighting. You hadn't arrived yet. but were expected late that Friday. Sorry to miss you. I know I will see you one day along the Trinity but truthfully, I would rather it be going out to sea. MaryLynn Tenenbaum

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Hi there,

It's nice to hear from you again! This is Marco from Italy! All is well here. Big thing coming up for me real soon. Saturday I will get married!!

I have not forgotten you. Both of you are really wonderful! Talk to you soon, Marco & Angela

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Heidi and Steph,

It has been so wonderful to hear from you. I'm so sorry to hear what happened with your beautiful boat and business. I too was hoping that you were taking back the business and going back out on the Bay. I can't tell you what a difference your trips made in my life.

My family and I have become so much more aware of our environment - especially our oceans. I have become so intrigued with whales and I hope to be able to get more involved in efforts to educate people and help save them. This year I read the "Eye of the Whale" and I found out how much you have tried to help the whales - thank you. You two are amazing people and I feel honored to have been on several of your cruises.

I was blessed with a trip down to San Ignacio Lagoon back in March of this year. To be able to be among the Gray Whales in their lagoon is absolutely incredible. I have looked into the eyes of these amazing, gentle giants. I have touched them and fell deeply in love with them. It was an experience that I will never forget.

Thank you for helping me and my family to learn about our oceans and the whales (our ambassadors of the sea). I hope and pray that the person who purchases the Sanctuary can continue the legend that you two have created. God bless you both.

Kathy Heyden/French Camp, CA

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Thanks for sending me the newsletter. It was great to see Sanctuary looking like herself again. I'm at a loss to understand the buyer's failure to launch. How many opportunities do we get to squander in a lifetime? I'm truly sorry you had to go through this nightmare. I hope some worthy person will step up and give Sanctuary the time and attention she deserves. She's a great little boat, and I will always love her. Bobbi Dunham [see her stunning letter called "The Definition of Magic" on Talk to Us.]

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It is such a pleasure to see your updates once again appearing in my mailbox. They are the first to get read when they arrive. I sure wish I were about 1900 miles west of where I am at so I could take another cruise. Got bless both of you.

Hal Warren/Lake Tawakoni, TX

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Thank you Thank you Thank you, we have missed your newsletter! I'm not sure if you are operating the cruises, I understood that you were off to the Trinity River.

Seven years ago, I was diagnosed with stage four cancer on a Friday afternoon at 6 pm. The first thing I said to my wife is that we are going whale watching with Heidi and Steph. We emailed you and got on your Saturday cruise. God bless Sanctuary Cruises! The Oertwig Family Michael & Anna May Oertwig

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Hi Heidi,

Great to hear all the progress with the Sanctuary. She does look beautiful. If you decide to take any cruises on her, please let me know. We are really missing our sanity time. We were in Santa Cruz over the weekend for a soccer tournament. We could see the bay from the fields and all of us just wanted to be out there again.
Love the updates. Keep them coming. Sharan Kemp

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Hey, guys!

It was sooooo great to run in to you at Moss Landing. Thanks to your web site, I know where you are. If you ever have any ideas about running a 'reunion cruise' on Sanctuary, you better let me know! I can hop a flight at a moment's notice.

Hang in there and have fun--I know you do. Luv ya, Mary Kay Huzar

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Dear Heidi,

Oh my word! I somehow missed reading your June 11th email, so want to thank you for the June 22nd one! Upon reading responses you included, I promptly realized something big has indeed happened to my favorite whale watching team, and searched for the earlier email.

So, now I've read through both (thank you), and I am so sorry to hear your news. I am dumbfounded that not only had you sold the business, but especially that you both suffered as a result, and that Sanctuary was so mistreated and dormant for so long. What a waste, on so many levels.

But, glad to hear you and Steph and others could come to the rescue. Bittersweet. I look forward to stepping aboard for more (long overdue!) whale watching trips in the future! My last one was for a very memorable birthday celebration; I usually don't have birthday parties, but thought I'd use it as an excuse to get a group of friends the opportunity to experience one of my passions - the ocean and its wildlife and amazing whales, and with my favorite captains.

You had a special deal at that time, 12 tickets for the price of 10, or 10 tickets get 2 free (???), and there were 10 of us that could make it that day, so you gave me a certificate for the remaining 2. I would occasionally find it in my wallet and smile that I still had such a treat waiting, and at the great memories of that day. All my friends had a wonderful time, and I had planned on doing such a trip for my birthday every year (March).

But alas, the following year while out riding my bike on errands I was struck by a car; bicycle totalled and my body nearly so. It's been a very long recovery the past number of years, and though the extent of injuries resulted in the loss of my business, and a couple remaining limitations that prevent me from returning to some other things I loved doing, I was at long last ready (physically) to use that certificate this coming season, even if it was to be just my young grandson (who has yet to go on a whale watching trip) and I. That's okay, we'll definately still do i

I'm glad for your updates, so I can start saving up. [She won't have to; we will get her out there no matter what!] I just can't imagine anyone taking your places; you really were my favorite people to experience such a joy with, making it m

Ya know, I had checked your website several times in the past couple years and thought something was up; so unlike you to not have current/recent info and pics! I think I even sent an email, but never heard anything back. I'm glad I updated my email address last year so I can get your current news! How exciting that you have another business connected with the water and people - a natural match for you and Steph. Will have to check that out too! I really wish you both, and Sanctuary, continued success and many, many blessings.

Much love, Anita (aka: Oceanita) Santa Cruz, CA

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Hi,

I also wish I had the money to buy Sanctuary Cruises! I also loved going out pretty often and seeing everything from Orcas with calves to to hundreds of jellyfish! It would be nice to have a reunion cruise as there are alot of us that miss it!

Wayne Thelwell

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Dear Heidi,

It was such a nice surprise to get an email from you again and to hear that you took Sanctuary Cruises back to the right path. I have fond memories going out to sea with you, spotting humpbacks and killer whales and I was so surprised that after you sold the business we basically never heard from the guy again (with exception for his introductory newsletter).

I went to Moss Landing a couple times over the last year but never saw any action around the boat so I thought something must be wrong. Even though I would love to see you keep the business, I can understand that that's not the plan so I cross my fingers that you find a good owner soon! Cheers and all the best to you, Katja

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Hey, you 2! So glad to hear you are doing so well. I've really missed Sanctuary and did not schedule any more trips after I stopped receiving the emails. I hope the new owners work out.

I am hoping to schedule a long weekend up at Trinity sometime this fall. Would love a kayak lesson and a motorcycle ride! In the meantime, take care and thanks for keeping in touch with all of us. Alison Gude

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It must be heart-breaking to see something you worked so hard to create fall on hard times. As a result, I will completely understand if you do not have the time or inclination to answer the following question. Are there any other operators in coastal California who you feel share your passion for marine life, environmental education and customer service? In other words - since the best is temporarily out of business do you have a suggestion for second best until you find the right buyer? I hope your search for the right buyer is successful. Sincerely, John W. Webster

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6/10/2009 UPDATE: Sanctuary has a brand new Jim Crane paint job and has flourished during over a week's stay at Gravelle's Boat Yard in Moss Landing, where Steph, Heidi and a talented crew of pros treated her to the vessel equivalent of a visit to a luxury spa. Shown left to right: Ardie Kelly, cabinetmaker and general wizard extraordinaire, Heidi, Jim Crane and Steph. See another work picture below.

Steph Dutton & Heidi Tiura began Sanctuary Cruises in 1999 with the purchase of a coveted Delta charter boat. In the fall of 1999, they hauled the boat and went through all of her systems, gave her a fresh new paint job and a brand new name: Sanctuary.

Both Steph and Heidi are Coast Guard licensed masters and they ran the boats and business. In 2007, they started the Trinity River Adventure Inn in Northern California. They sold Sanctuary Cruises to a buyer who also was a licensed master.

He said he appreciated how the business had been operated and promised to maintain the high standards that had made this company such a success.
The buyer was told 5 things to do to continue to thrive:

1.) Keep providing high quality cruises and helping people learn about the sea and its creatures.

2.) Get to know the customers and let them know him. Our customers are used to being part of the adventure and many have been out with us every couple of months since we started.

3.) Run the cruises half of the time, and have the captain we were mentors for as he worked toward his license run the other half of the trips. All crew members had to be engaging naturalists.

4.) Continue to post updates frequently on the web site, because so many people had it bookmarked and often checked it.

5.) Keep putting out email newsletters to the 1,000 or so folks who had signed up for them. It's easy using companies such as Constant Contact.

This was a recipe for success, but in a year and a half:

1.) The buyer ran the boat under 10 times.

2.) He didn't go to the harbor to meet his customers. Many complained to us that they had no idea who he was; they
never saw him.

3.) He automated ticket sales, which isn't bad on its own (some people prefer to order online), but on top of this, he rarely answered the phone or returned emails. We answered emails within a few minutes most of the time. No one ever waited more than 6 hours for an email response from us, and that was on days we were running trips. As soon as we walked in the door at home, Heidi checked email and Steph checked messages, as he did all day long on the boats.

4.) The buyer gutted a very popular web site, refused to post updates on the web site, and he never posted passengers' photos taken on the trips. Much of the fun for our customers was sending us great shots, which we used on the site. Heidi wrote a weekly column for the Salinas Californian and some of those shots were used for her column. Last summer was fantastic for humpbacks, but the web site showed no evidence of this.

5.) The buyer put out a few newsletters, then quit. All of those readers who had enjoyed keeping up with the bay were cut off from it and Sanctuary Cruises.

He blamed the economy for his failure.

Here is what a buyer needs to succeed: 

1.) The will to succeed. This includes working smart and following sound advise.

2.) It would be great if a buyer had a Captain's license and could run the trips, but we know of several captains who would love to work for Sanctuary Cruises. A buyer could work onboard as the naturalist and deckhand, getting to know the customers, who are the reason Sanctuary Cruises has such a loyal following.

3.) Bookkeeping and web site maintenance: If a buyer lacks these skills, they can be learned. The more one does, the less one pays someone else to do it.

4.) Knowledge of Diesel Engine and General Boat Maintenance. As with #4, these can be learned.

This is a turnkey operation

It includes:

1.) Our well-deserved reputation. Check out this San Francisco Chronicle article to get an idea of it:
San Francisco Chronicle article

2.) Our vessel Sanctuary, a 42' Coast Guard certified 39 passenger vessel. She has just gotten the same thorough haul-out she always got with Steph and Heidi (that's Heidi on the right, taping off the graphics before Sanctuary was painted). She has a brand new, top-of-the-line paint job and has received substantial upgrades. Sanctuary may be leased for the first year while the buyer gets the feel of the operation, saving the additional costs of buying the boat.

3.) An excellent web site with great placement. This is our primary means of advertising and it has proven to be inexpensive and worth a fortune. While it may have a few quirks right now as Heidi restores it, it will be perfect for the new owner(s).

4.) FULL TRAINING IN EVERY ASPECT: We will train the right candidate(s) on everything we have learned in working with whales and other marine life for over 10 years. This includes on-the-water training for owner(s), captains and crew to make sure everyone understands how important it is to respect the animals found out there and operate safely around them. It also includes ongoing customer relations support, help bringing back our regulars while attracting new ones, hotel and motel contacts who have sold Sanctuary Cruises whale watching packages to their guests and everything else needed to do great.

5.) Full coaching on accounting, web work, diesel maintenance and all of the other items needed to successfully operate Sanctuary Cruises. We will provide all systems and forms developed over the years so you can spend time out there with your customers.

6.) Beautiful line of custom-designed embroidered hats, jackets, sweatshirts and T-shirts. Just creating a logo and digitizing the design can cost hundreds of dollars. Heidi created our logos and they have all been digitized. Our supplier is the best. It offers a wide range of products and has a low minimum order.
Best of all, prices are true wholesale.

6.) Financing is available. We will consider long-term with the right candidates. This is an excellent company for a couple; it sure was for us.

Our sale price is $325,000.00, including the boat. It drops considerably with a substantial down payment, depending on the buyer's/buyers' experience, down payment and how closely buyer(s) fit our idea of what it takes to run this company well.

If you're nature-oriented, willing to work hard and enjoy introducing people to the wonders of the ocean, call us. We can be reached at 530.778.3444. Or email us.
See you out there,
Steph & Heidi

If you'd like more background on how Sanctuary Cruises has operated and should be operated, spend some time checking out these links. Because the company is not operating right now, some links may be broken. Our apologies, but we'll fix them soon.

Explore: Whales and Dolphins by Season and How We Work
to learn when your favorites are here and how we operate around marine mammals.
Here's a clue: It's their world and we are the visitors.

The Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary took note of an incredibly rare sighting of ours
May 30, 2001. Scroll down this link to see what it was.
We see whales and dolphins all year. Spring is an explosion of life on the bay. We have northbound gray whales; humpbacks are arriving here to feed through fall; orcas come to hunt marine mammals and fish (different pods eat different things); and many species of dolphins are here.
Pacific white-sided dolphins--such as this one photgraphed by our passenger Stan Foster--are frequently found on the bay, often in huge numbers. 

Dolphins generate true joy in people as they cavort near our boats and even change direction to come play on our bow waves.


First timers? Explore: Where We Are, How to Dress, What to Bring
We're located in Moss Landing, halfway between Santa Cruz and Monterey, just 2 blocks off Highway 1; full directions may be found on Info/Directions.

We rejoice in letters like this!

4/30/2007: Hi -Just wanted to say THANK YOU for a great trip on Tuesday 4/24. We saw humpback whales, and found ourselves in a large school of
porpoises. Of course sea lions and otters were everywhere as well.

We had my mother there for her 85th Birthday - and you guys made her
feel really special by announcing it on the boat - and saying that her
good karma brought all the fish [well, marine mammals] out!! Thanks also for helping her get
in and out of the boat.

Thanks again. We have done other cruises in the Monterey area - but
will now only use yours - and will only recommend you to others.
Eric Nelson/Fort Lauderdale, FL

3/27/2007: Thanks for the frequent updates. Indeed the Spring does seem like a prime time for a watch. I've been out with you a number of times in all seasons over the past 5 years but have yet to see an Orca. Those of us who are stuck at desks thousands of miles away (in Georgia) have to read the updates and live them vicariously. It was great to watch the National Geographic special, mostly because they were with Sanctuary Cruises. The subject matter was painful, but was reality.
Thanks again for the delicious updates, pix, etc.
George Pearce Columbus, GA

3/24/2007: Dear Heidi,
A couple of years ago my partner and I visited Monterey. We are avid whale watchers on the east coast and were excited to finally go whale watching out west! We went on a couple of whale watch cruises in Monterey Bay, and were really disappointed. The boats were crowded and we seemed to know more than the naturalists on board!

On the advice of a friend, we drove up to Moss Landing to take a Sanctuary Cruises cruise. What a difference! [The crew] were so friendly and welcoming, and we had a great time. The next time we are back on the west coast, you can bet that we will skip the Monterey boats and go straight to Sanctuary!

Anyway, the real reason I am writing is to tell you how happy we are that Sanctuary was featured in the National Geographic special. We watched last week--sometimes covering our eyes--but very interested in what we learned. Mostly though, I'm glad that such a great company got profiled in such a big way.
Congrats to you and your whole team!!
Jennifer Koretsky~New York

Read Chapter 10 of Eye of the Whale by Dick Russell to get an idea of how we operate and what you can expect.
The chapter starts with a quote by Heidi Tiura, who founded Sanctuary Cruises along with her husband Steph Dutton. Don't miss the Captain's Log at the bottom of this page for updates.

"I went on the whale watching cruise and was amazed at the Relief Bands.
I am very prone to motion sickness and was absolutely fine thoroughout the trip.
I just wish I didn't have to give it back before the car ride home!"
Thanks! Katie Sommer

"I was with you when we found those two great pods of Orcas. Wonderful day! I enjoyed myself immensely and hope to be with you again next time I have a weekend in California. I took a number of photos of the Orcas on that day - as Steph said, it would have been hard not to get some reasonable shots." John Paramore

To read more letters from passengers, click here.

Kids take a turn at the wheel.
How cool is that?!

HOW WE'RE DIFFERENT:
  • Clean, comfortable boat that smells good.
  • One of the longest trips on the Monterey Bay. Easier on the whales & a deluxe experience.
  • Incredible naturalists and friendly crew that takes great care of you.
  • Our location in Moss Landing Harbor is easy to reach from any direction; Parking very close to the boats for just $3/day.
  • Worried about seasickness? Check out Relief Bands. Designed by NASA, they rock!
  • First timers? Explore:
    Where We Are, How to Dress, What to Bring
  • We believe in giving back. That's why we have special rates for schools and conservation organizations and host kids' groups that couldn't afford to come out any other way.
  • We help researchers such as UCSC's Dr. Mary Silver by collecting water samples and sharing information.
  • We support numerous animal rescue groups.

Our Captain's Log updates tell about recent experiences with the whales, dolphins and people we see on our cruises. A lot of folks really enjoy the stories (900 have signed up to receive them as email newsletters!). Read farther to see some examples. We never sell our email list and only send out updates every week or two.

From Previous Captain's Logs

4/6/2007: Killer Whales& Easter Bunnies: Just a brief note to wish you a happy and fun Easter and to tell you we've seen killer whales twice in 2 days. They're the wild card, but it could be three or four in a row this weekend.

Check out the photos from "K" and "L" pods, the fish-eating orcas we saw last month (the transients are here now and they feed on marine mammals). These pictures were taken by long-time passenger Bruce Naliboff; he sent us a CD that had at least 40 excellent shots.

The photographs illustrate the uniqueness of these orca's saddle patches, which is the lighter area under and behind their dorsal fins. Happy Easter and see you out there, Heidi

3/13/2007: The National Geographic documentary that recreates our Mothers Day 2004 whale watching cruise airs 3/16 at 7 p.m. Pacific! This is the day we first saw killer whales attack a gray whale cow and calf. No one who was on board that day will ever be the same. They saw something few have, until now.

This is from the National Geographic web site:

Mother's Day, 2004: passengers on a whale-watching excursion in Monterey Bay, CA witnessed a huge gray whale and her calf locked in mortal combat with a super-aggressive gang of smaller killer whales. What caused these killer whales to attack? Using actual video footage from eyewitnesses and the latest scientific analysis, Whale Attack investigates this rarely seen assault and shows viewers how this attack changed our understanding of the secrets that lie beneath the waves. Catch a teaser on National Geographic's web site. Search for "Whale Attack" video.

3/7/2007: Mothers and Babies

It's a little early, but we've seen several pairs go by northbound already! High on the list of why you can't trust the books on nature is the fact that nature doesn't seem to read the books, nor abide by them. Generally speaking, the pregnant gray whales head south first in the fall, hoping to have their babies in the protected lagoons of Baja.

In the spring, the last grays to head north are the cows with calves. But that puts them in our area roughly April into June. So how is it Noel and Hillary have spotted several cow and calf pairs already in early March?

Orcas show up in spring to hunt the baby grays and as much we might like to think experienced mothers are trying to beat the rush, they really can't leave the lagoons until the babies are ready for the journey.

At any rate, at least so far, the pairs seem to have slipped over the Monterey Bay without attracting killer whales.

Blue Whale Spotted Today

The typical blue whale season here is mid-summer into late fall. That's not to say we don't have an occasional straggler, or maybe it's a free-spirited wanderer, that cruises in by itself. When you eat as much as a blue whale eats, you probably don't think a whole lot of having more of your own species around. That could be the thought of a blue that was spotted by a research vessel offshore several miles today.

Bait Balls on the Depth Finder

We occasionally forget to tell passengers how we know we're passing over balls of schooling bait fish. A passenger will wander up to the wheelhouse door and ask if we see it on radar, but radar shows us what's over the water, not under the surface.

Depth sounders give us the glimpse below, but in a fairly narrow beam. A transducer is attached on the bottom of the hull and it sends out pings that bounce off the bottom and back to the unit, which measures the time for the ping to return to tell us how deep the water is under the boat.

It will also show us fish in the water, especially bait balls which can be hundreds of feet across. As the boat travels, the depth sounder's screen illuminates the mass underneath us.

When the bait is really thick and we get a reading of water 19 feet deep instead of the usual hundreds of feet, we know the ping read the mass as solid; it couldn't get through the fish!

We get excited when we see spring's bait balls starting to build, because they herald the return of the humpbacks that will stay in the area until late fall or even early winter. As they lunge up through the bait ball, they fill their enormous pleated throats with fish and water and we are often there, ready to catch the picture. No wonder spring is so popular for whale watching.
See you out there, Heid

2/7/2007: The glamour species of dolphins, killer whales, has long captivated nature lovers. We see transients--the marine mammal eaters--often on the Monterey Bay, but what does it mean when the salmon-eaters leave the Northwest and head our way?

Although the impact of killer whales on salmon is of the utmost importance to the fish being eaten, the food chain buck doesn't stop there and humans are impacted as well. How much?

HAPPY VALENTINE'S DAY TO YOU ALL! Take your sweetie for a walk on the beach and a romantic beach fire; a bottle of wine would be excellent.

See you out there, Heid
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The NW Pods are Back in California Waters

Back in January of 2000, we were treated to a visitation by "L-pod," a salmon-eating pod of killer whales that usually lives in the Pacific Northwest. It was quite a thrill because of their numbers (possibly 50 or more) and the fact they'd never been seen south of Gray's Harbor, Washington before.

The question surfaced then whether this was good news. On one hand, it proves they can and will extend their territory if they want to. Or is it that they need to? Has their staple food, king and silver salmon, become so depleted up north that the killer whales have had to move to find more food, or was their expedition for another reason? Kind of a "You don't know if you don't go" thing; Columbus would have understood.

This question popped up again with the recent sightings of TWO of the NW salmon-eating pods of killer whales along the California coast. "K" and "L" have both made appearances.

Ken Balcomb is the founder of the Center for Whale Research and he has 30 years of experience studying "K-pod." He has a positive I.D. on some of the pod just photographed off California and believes members of "L-pod" have also been in the neighborhood.

We have lost a lot of killer whales in the last several years thanks to human impact on salmon habitat, but an equally lethal curve has been thrown to them from our pollution. Top-of-the-line food chain predators such as orcas absorb the toxins in everything they consume and the fat-soluble toxins are the worst because they stay in the system. There is no flushing action to purge themselves of the poisons except for one and there's a tragic irony to it: Mothers feed their calves fat-rich milk and that milk is laced with the toxins.

No wonder they're looking farther from traditional home waters for their food, if that's what they're up to. Could it be that this endangered species is adapting using the age-old business strategy of diversification? If so, it could be taken as good news that they're in our waters. Let's hold a good thought for them and work harder to make sure our ill effects on killer whales decrease.
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Fish, Habitat and Where We Go From Here

Commercial and sport fishers alike seem to spend a lot of their time wondering if there will be any fish to catch the next season, year or decade. It isn't worry without substance. Degradation of habitat doesn't just affect one species and we are not all that far removed from the impact of bad practices in distant places. While the salmon-eating forays of the NW orca pods may be good news for them, can it also mean there will be fewer fish for fishers?

My life has intertwined with salmon and steelhead for several decades. When I moved to Oregon in the late 80's, I walked the streams in the fall and watched salmon fight their way up to their headwaters. Captivated, I stared into the clear, cool pools as they dug their redds. On one particularly beautiful day in October, the sight of a tired, spawned out salmon waiting to die--its skin mottled and battered and its fins frayed--caused me to burst into silent tears, which I can still feel as I write this.

My first year in Oregon, I decked on pukers, charter boats that primarily fished for salmon. I wondered at the abundance and cautioned my friends, captains who had grown up with the bounty of the sea, telling them it couldn't last forever (it didn't). On Columbia River tugs, we occasionally got an anonymously delivered steelhead from gillnetters whose horrible nets caught and killed the un-targeted, illegal catch. Rather than wasting the fish, they'd toss it on our deck in the pre-dawn morning and then call us on the VHF radio and say, "Check your aft deck."

Now that I live far from the ocean, the fish and I still share waters. Just the other day, Steph and I sat outside on our bank and watched several salmon and steelhead mere feet from our eyes. Sometimes they nose into the bank and wave their tails gently, holding in place as the clear, clean and cold water slips by. The picture above is one of the steelhead from that day.

The Trinity River is renowned for its fish, and salmon and steelhead lead the illustrious list. Last week, the San Francisco Chronicle did a great piece on catch and release fly fishing right where we live. I posted it on our web site for the Trinity River Adventure Inn and you can read it here or go to our Trinity web site later. The article said restoration of the Trinity was simple. The river had been starved of water that was shunted off for agriculture, decimating the habitat for fish. The solution was, "Just add water." This river is thriving now, but record-low rainfall this winter has us worried. What next? While we enjoy a good flow even in drought years, we can't help wondering how it will all work out for wildlife.

The fish are fed by these enchanting waters and in our own way, so are we. This morning, Steph and I tried a new hike along the lake that feeds the Trinity and it was rejuvenating after the days of internet and accounting hell I have been in. Tomorrow, we'll return with a camera to show you more of this very special area.

If you haven't yet signed up for Sanctuary Cruises updates, you can do so by clicking on the link above and subscribing.

Most people understand at least some of the far reaching ramifications of habitat destruction and pollution, but for those who don't, here's an easy analogy. Take a handful of twigs. Make a triangle using 3 pieces. Keep building the triangle up, laying one stick over another. Now try to pull just one stick out of the bunch and see what happens.

It doesn't have to be a big stick and it may have seemed an unimportant stick, but when it was pulled out, most likely the whole thing fell apart; or maybe a good chunk of it collapsed. Could you have predicted where the impact would be felt the most or better yet, once you're looking at the fallen heap, could you fix it without starting over from scratch? When tinkering with nature, how often does greed or ignorance come into play? How do you feel as you survey the mess?

This is where I take some comfort in my "Armageddon Solution" to such problems as we are forcing onto nature. Maybe if we keep goofing up, someone or -thing will wipe the slate clean and let nature start over. I am not an organized-religion person, but I found it interesting, doing a little research on the name for my solution, that the Bible says that Armageddon is a place, not a meltdown, end-of-the-world event.

"It is not a battlefield, but a gathering place." Maybe we can be wiser and more protective of our world and create an Armageddon Solution that brings us together for the common good of conservation, which, in the end, will benefit us all. What do you think?

1/7/2007: 2006 was a banner year for changes for us, our companies, even the whales we see on Monterey Bay. How will the year just past affect 2007? Stay tuned.

Gray whales are on their annual migration south and being seen in strong numbers along with dolphins. January is the top month for the southbound migration, so try to catch it!

Our new Sanctuary Cruises hats are ready and we also have extra cozy polar fleece sweatshirts with the Sanctuary Cruises or Trinity River Adventure Inn logos on them, proving I really did do something constructive in December. The logos are shown below.

You could join us for a visit to the Inn prior to the official spring opening if you don't mind a work in progress. It will never be cheaper and would give cool bragging rights: "I was there before they even opened..."

Looking Back

Last January, I reflected on the tumultuous year we'd had. 2005 included breast cancer, which overshadowed everything else. I mention it every now and then as a reminder: Get those mammograms; do those self exams! [The day this went out, I was contacted by a woman whose best friend had just been diagnosed with breast cancer; she encouraged her friend to look back in the Captain's Log to read about my experiences because she appreciated the very personal account, its humor and suggestions.] 2006 presented us with a mixed bag and more changes than we had experienced in our lives together, which is saying something.

Steph and I took stock and Princess of Whales was front and center in the crosshairs. We'd found our wonderful place on the Trinity River and were up there as much as we could be, but we wanted more. We have always been the captains of Princess because she is a big boat and requires big boat experience. If we were to keep her, we needed to be down there. If we sold her, Noel had the skill and talent--two very different qualities--to run our boat Sanctuary without us.

When fuel prices spiked, we took a beating. Then interest rates rose, adding to the assault, which was finished off by her insurance, which is astronomical. We put Princess up for sale and almost lucked out with an early sale, but it fell through at the 11th hour. Now, she is scheduled for a vessel auction in February. I have mixed feelings about this. It's as though I have two incredible horses. Each is strong, exciting and thrilling to ride. But they're going different directions and I can only ride one horse. While I agreed with Steph and chose the move to Trinity County, it doesn't mean I don't long for the other horse, too.

I guess as we age, we encounter more and more things we won't do in this lifetime, but it's a new revelation for me. I've caught myself thinking about tugs recently and feeling remorseful that they are only a part of my past, not future. This is lunacy, since the work is demanding and around-the-clock; most of my shipmates were boneheads. I think what I am really missing is the fact I can't go back.

The door isn't closed to running Sanctuary every now and then, however; I wouldn't give that up. Little compares with operating a boat on the ocean; checking out the changes, relishing the days when the whales and dolphins and birds all seem to live in harmony and abundance. Then there are the passengers who become friends. I carry on email conversations with many of you; several as recently as today or yesterday. But it's not the same and I mull this over as I type. The trips we shared and what we saw out there together are like pieces of beach glass; each one is a different color and has a unique shape. It can't surprise you to know that Steph and I have filled our pockets with beach glass every walk on the beach after a cruise; all were with our dog or dogs, who especially loved this chance to run and splash and rub in long-dead animals. There is a large scallop shell next to my desk that's filled with some of that beach glass. Fragments of what was.

Starting in June and mostly completed in November, we made the move north and discovered to our horror that we had a lot more stuff than we thought. It bulges out of the garages of both Laughing Salmon and Sow's Ear. We unpack a box, shuffle stuff in one of the places to make room for it, sigh, then wonder what to do with the next box, the box after that and the rest of them. In the 12 years since Steph and I got together, we have moved a lot. We had so much going on that there was no time to sort things out, or tidy them up. 2007 is our year to pare down, simplify and live well; how about you?

New Additions

The bright spots in 2006 included two new additions to our family. Scupper Pro arrived in the fall when he had to find a new home due to downsizing. I have introduced him once, but here's a great picture from last month. He hoardes treats and since our deckhand Hillary was very generous with the dogs for Christmas, he has a current stash of several next to him on the couch.

Scupper has had several kayak excursions on the lake but so far, no river runs. We have miraculously not taken a cold swim thanks to his exuberance and want to keep it that way on our winter trips down the Trinity. Scupper has a fabulous life jacket that Bisco must be envious of: red and black with reflective stripes and a cool pocket for Mom's lip balm. I think Bisco will get one soon. Actually, he has Bisco's. The one I ordered for him was too small. Need a small dog's PFD? Let me know; we'll sell it at cost.

Our other addition is a cat that is the same color as Squid: cream with apricot points and a ring tail. He was at a party at a log home up a remote canyon. We arrived to see him limping along on the deck, feasting on turkey and visiting with everyone. Our other cats are all rescued animals and comparatively spooky with most people. I picked this little guy up and he draped himself around my neck like a boa and stayed there. Who could leave him after hearing he'd been seen up there for 2 days, a kitten in freezing temps, surrounded by hungry, wild animals?

We called him Tiny Tim due to the limp, knowing his real name would reveal itself, as all of our animals have proven. When antibiotics cured what may have been an infection from a bite, the limp went away and he became more rambunctious. Remember The Three Chipmunks? Alvin was always being called by their human, Dave, who would call, "Alvin? Alvin?! AAALLLVIIIN!!!" This can be heard several times a day around here as he climbs the drapes, jumps on Bisco's head or scratches on the couch. He's so cross-eyed, we aren't sure how he functions, but he does very well. We had a little soirree at our place before Christmas. Alvin was the official greeter; he has completely taken over. Our animals are such powerful, positive influences in our lives and we never take them for granted; they are as important as friends and family.

Gray Whales Truckin' South

Back on the Monterey Bay: Gray whales are coming through in good numbers now. Noel and Hillary reported seeing several singles, plus pods of 4-5 on recent trips. There is a question mark on where the grays fed last summer. Some researchers up north reported grays were scarce where they are usually seen feeding, but they're heading south right on time. Where were they? What did they feed on? What you learn from nature is that everything is always changing, either in small amounts or huge ones. Figuring out whether it's good or bad is tricky, but in this case, we should know a lot more when the whales head north. If they didn't feed well enough to withstand the winter's fast, we'll lose some on the trip back up.

We're trying out a new schedule of 10:30 a.m. departures on our whale watching trips Wednesday through Friday and two trips on weekend days. The morning trip is at 9:00 and the afternoon trip is at 1. For people who just can't make the 10:30 trip other days, the 1 o'clock weekend trips might be helpful. How does this work for you? I'd love some feedback.

The peak of the southbound gray whale migration is somewhere between now and the end of the month, so don't miss it. Yesterday, Noel had a big pod of Risso's dolphins as well as the grays, making for a very happy load of passengers. Risso's are seen frequently on the bay and they are astounding: unique, second only to Orcas in size in the dolphin kingdom and easy to photograph! Katie Freeman got this shot of adults and a baby Risso's last year.
To make reservations. click on RESERVATIONS & GIFT CERTIFICATES or you can call us at 831.643.0128.

Hats, Hats & Hats!
Here are some of the knit caps we just finished. We have three styles: long with the cuff turned up and embroidered, regular with no cuff and long with the embroidery at the bottom edge, so you can pull it way down. They are not on the Store page yet, but you can order them by emailing me, or you can pick one up on the boat. We also have neat new weathered canvas ballcaps (sounds like an oxymoron, hmm?) on the boat with the new logo. All knit caps are $16 and the ballcaps are $18. In addition to the colors shown, we have light gray with a solid black logo for you monotone types.

I did a larger version of this logo for our new embroidered polar fleece pullover sweatshirts. They rock! They have a kangaroo pocket, deep hood with ties and rib-knit cuffs and bottom. They are plush, fabulously cozy and very attractive. They come in Small, Medium, Large & Extra Large; they run large so you have plenty of room for additional layers and are available in navy blue or bright red. Quantities are limited, so don't wait if you think you want to order. They are $49.95 with the Sanctuary Cruises logo or our new heart-sized Trinity River Adventure Inn logo as you see below; this is the view from our place looking downriver. Dragonflies abound here, so it made sense to include on of these wonderful insects in the design. Order polar fleece sweatshirts by email and you can have your name on the sleeve at no extra charge. I will post pictures of them soon, but you can check out Noel and Hillary's on a cruise; they are really nice.

Trinity River Adventure Inn Update

Progress on Sow's Ear's rustification slowed around the holidays but has sped up since then. Steelhead fishers are going crazy up here, although they may be crazy anyway. Weather has no impact on them and they are floating by in driftboats all day long. We're also seeing them in waders along the shore when we run the river. They think we're nuts to be on the river without a fishing pole.

We can accommodate guests for fishing, kayaking or low-key lounging now. It ain't fancy, but you'll get a warm cabin, full kitchen with much of what you'd need already there and we will provide excellent meals if you don't feel like cooking. This time of year, we paddle the lakes and river, take long hikes on the mountain behind our place (often with a camera), sit by the fire and read and watch movies. The birds we see include mergansers, bald eagles, golden eagles, kingfishers, herons, egrets and many more. If that sounds good to you, drop us a line: mail@trinityriveradventureinn.com. The Inn is located in Lewiston, 45 minutes west of Redding in Northern California. You'll love it. See you out there or up here.

October 2005: The Definition of Magic

Bobby Dunham was on board Sanctuary October 2005 when a very special whale visited our boat. Here is her elegant description of it. Teri Garcia's photograph of the eye of a humpback whale is at right:

If I could have handed someone a wish list of special things to include on a special day, the list would not have included all the wonderful things that happened on our Sanctuary Cruise. I wouldn’t have dared ask for the things that actually occurred. But sometimes, magic happens.

Magic happened on Sunday, October 16, 2005.

We have a young friend from Switzerland who is in the United States in an English language immersion program. She has always loved whales, largely because of the “Free Willy” films, but has never had the opportunity to see them. So, we planned a whale watching outing, largely for her, but also for ourselves. We’d gone on two other occasions and always had a wonderful time.

I did some research online because I wanted to make certain we chose the tour that would give her the best experience possible. Sanctuary Cruises appealed to me for several reasons. The welfare of the animals themselves figured prominently in the content of their website. And I loved the idea of one tour per day, so the maximum attention could be given to that tour.

The night before our cruise, I lay listening to the pounding of the surf, and was a little anxious about the weather and ocean conditions, but the day dawned sunny, clear, and calm. We arrived at Moss Landing early, had a look at our boat, and said a brief hello to an extremely capable looking man we later learned to be Captain Steph. We returned to the dockside and waited in the warm sunshine, soaking in the atmosphere of the picturesque dock, while the cranky sea lions barked about whatever cranky sea lions bark about.

Right on time, Captain Steph walked toward those of us who had gathered at the dock, and we made our way to the Sanctuary, a solid-looking, immaculately clean vessel with a four-footed first mate. I remember now that Captain Steph told me right before departure that he loved this boat, that the best things always happened on this boat.

Steph told us the swell was high that day, despite the idyllic appearance of the sky and lack of wind, but that if we liked E ticket rides at Disneyland, we would love the trip out to open water. We did. We sat on the seats in front of the wheel, spotting jellies, scanning the horizon, and hanging on tight till our bodies found their natural rhythm to ride the rise and fall of our sturdy little boat’s progress through the swell. That alone was worth the price of admission. We left all the extra hats and coats we had lugged along inside the cabin, never needing them.

Along the way, we saw otters feeding in waters conventional wisdom had told us was too deep for otters to feed in. Captain Steph told us about seeing an otter floating in water of that depth with a crab on it’s chest/menu. I guess Sanctuary isn’t the only object on the sea whose size belies its capabilities.

We were also delighted to see small groups of sea lions, arcing in and out of the water in an impossibly lyrical dance, then stopping as a body and looking back at us, as if to ask if we had gotten their picture, and did we perhaps agree with Captain Steph’s quip that they thought the whales were over- rated.

A very short time into our trip, Captain Steph told us that he had spoken to a ship we could see a couple of miles ahead of us, and that we might be seeing something pretty wonderful fairly soon. Captain Steph slowed the boat’s engine and you could nearly taste the anticipation. I can’t remember which happened first, the sound, the smell, or the sight of our first whales of the day. It was Big Fin and her calf. We spotted their blow and heard that mighty blast as their breath plumed into the sky. Two incredibly graceful forms arched into view, the familial rise and fall of cow and calf, a lifelong rhythm we were fortunate to see at it’s beginning. Steph told us to wait, wait, wait, NOW, take your pictures, and we all got our first shot of those fabulous flukes.

The whales were just being whales and we were completely thrilled. Captain Steph, with uncanny accuracy, born of experience, instinct, and maybe a little assistance from a depth sounder, kept us right in position to get another good look when they broke surface again. More blow! And this time we were close enough for our first whiff of whale breath - once smelled, never forgotten. Another great photo op, and they disappeared again with a graceful flash. Captain Steph pointed out their footprints, the slick left behind by the water being displaced by their mighty flukes. We watched, trying to comprehend the power of a creature which could do that - and be no threat to us.

And this was just the beginning. As Steph said a little later, trying to decide which whale to watch was not the worst problem to have. We saw so many. It seemed everywhere we looked, there was blow and those graceful forms breaking the surface. It was too good to be true, too many whales to see all at once.

We slowly moved away from the whales we had been watching, because as Steph said, the primary concern was not to change the behavior of the animals by our actions.

I wish I could remember the exact sequence of events. Steph said he had spotted another cow and calf, which was so unusual for the time of year. She had been seen before, but didn’t have a name as yet. He again slowed the engine, and waited to see the animal’s response to us. Nothing could have prepared us for what then happened. Nothing. She came to us. In friendship? In curiosity? She came to us and showed us the wonder that is a whale in a whale’s world. Without fear, without aggression, she came to us.

The sea was a little rough, and we made our unsteady way from one end of the boat to the other as she dove and rose again and again. She blew her plume right into the boat with us, and we didn’t even mind her breath. She showed us her belly, she raised her flippers out of the water, she displayed her majestic flukes. We were all in awe, and I remember someone asking if this happened all the time, and Steph saying, no, no, that something truly special was going on.

I don’t know how long this lasted. She never seemed to tire of us or of showing us her beauty, and we would never have tired of her. But Steph, mindful of her calf skirting us a short distance away, said we should no longer engage her, and we prepared to end the most magical moment of our lives.

But it didn’t end. We moved off and she followed us. I watched in fascination as she dove under the boat, moving from side to side, fore and aft, looking at us all, raising her massively elegant head out of the water, diving right beneath us, never touching the boat, though only missing it by mere inches. We reached our hands toward her as she would lift her flipper, then she would roll, and slip beneath the boat, leaving us to watch that gentle thrust of her flukes, using just enough of that amazing power to propel herself, never enough to harm us in any way. I thought my heart would burst from the joy of this once-in-a-lifetime chance to interact with one of the most magnificent creatures of this magnificent ocean. She was so incredibly beautiful, and graceful. Gentle. Then, regretfully, but respectfully, we moved off.

We were busy scanning for the by now familiar puff and blow of a rising whale, when, the unimaginable happened. She surfaced next to us again. It was magic. Pure magic. She showed us every square inch of herself, her beautiful, generous self. “She likes us,” someone cried out. She must have. We saturated our senses with her, and while others may someday discern the reasons for her amazing actions that day, I am content to simply be amazed by them, connected to her by them, changed by them. She awoke something innate deep in my heart, and it clamors to be heard today, and hopefully tomorrow, and everyday for the rest of my life. It was suggested our beautiful friend should be named. I suggested ‘Mon Ami’. Whether that name sticks or not, it is how I will always remember her. My friend. May God grant her and all her kind, long, healthy, contented life.

And thank you, Captain Steph and Sanctuary Cruises for giving us one of the best, the most magical days we will ever know.

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